Why go?

Johann Wolfgang von Goethe wrote, ‘See Naples, and die,’ believing the city was the most naturally and artistically beautiful in the world. And the location is spectacular: the Bay of Naples is overlooked by the still active volcano Vesuvius, memorable for covering the extraordinary archaeological sites of Pompeii and Herculaneum in 79AD.

Centro Storico, the city’s historical centre, has its own wealth of world-class sights to visit. At Napoli Sotterranea (Naples Underground), visitors can explore tunnels, aqueducts and chambers dating back to the dawn of the Greek city of Neapolis. The underground system was incorporated into the city’s water system up until the cholera epidemic of 1884.

The unprepossessing exterior of the city’s cathedral, the Duomo, won’t prepare you for the splendours within: paintings, frescoes and gilding galore. Its Museo del Tesoro contains the relics of Naples’ patron saint, San Gennaro, and three times a year the vials containing his congealed blood are brought out to miraculously liquefy, said to ensure the city’s safety. Famously, the blood failed to liquefy in 1939, the year World War II started, and in 1980, the year of the Irpinia earthquake.

The Cappella Sansevero (book ahead) is worth visiting to admire Giuseppe Sanmartino’s exquisite and uncannily realistic marble Veiled Christ. And, in the museum’s crypt, there’s a pair of 18th-century ‘anatomical machines’ – skeletons with their arteriovenous systems almost perfectly reproduced.

The Museo Archeologico Nazionale is one of the world’s discoveries from Pompeii and Herculaneum, including mosaics and the Gabinetto Segreto, a collection of ancient erotic art. It also houses the renowned Farnese collection of stunning bronzes. Look out for Paleolithic bones and flints found on Capri.

What to do

The Centro Storico is organised on the Greek and Roman grid system – Via dei Tribunali follows the route of the Decumanus Maximus, and Piazza Bellini has a section of the 4th-century Greek Aragonese and Habsburgs all left their mark, and no Grand Tour Italy’s ‘most beautiful crown’. It has three castles and many art-filled palazzi to prove it.

Naples boasts a host of 'art stations' featuring contemporary installations too. Don’t miss Toledo metro station, which was designed to reflect the story of the city: the remains of Aragonese walls were incorporated into the Atrium, along with mosaics depicting Neapolitan history.

Where to stay

Costantinopoli 104, close to the social hub of Piazza Bellini, is a smart contemporary hotel within an 18th-century Liberty-style house, with stained glass windows, a garden oasis and - rare for Centro Storico - a pool. costantinopoli104.it

Close by is boutique b&b The Bellini House, whose simple rooms are decorated in a quirky mix of vintage furniture and modern art. houseinnaples.it

Breakfast is delivered to your individually styled room (think Cole & Son wallpaper, chandeliers and the odd antique) at Domus Deorum, an upscale b&b close to the train station with an outdoor terrace. domusdeorum.com

A short walk from the Duomo, find elegant rooms in converted 12th-century Caracciolo Palazzo, complete with imposing staircase, maiolica tiles and cloistered courtyard. palazzocaracciolo.com

Where to eat and drink

Remember the micro-climate and mineral-rich slopes of Vesuvius when you enjoy the rich produce of Naples. Even the pizza here picks up a Michelin rating: At L’Antica Pizzeria da Michele you take a ticket at the door, join the line and pick an option (margherita or marinara both come with Vesuviano tomatoes). It might be the best pizza you’ve ever had. damichele.net

For sophisticated cocktails, visit the splendid literary café Scotto Jonno in the belle époque Galleria Principe di Napoli. Then take a lift to Sustanza for chef Marco Ambrosino’s modern creations inspired by the Mediterranean, along the lines of lamb cooked in myrtle with almond tzatziki. scottojonno.com sustanzanapoli.com

Baccalaria celebrates Naples’s beloved baccalà (cured or salted cod), at the same time drawing on global inspiration for interesting bites. Try teriyaki bowl baccalà with sesame cod and wakame. baccalaria.it

Close by, near Piazza Giovanni Bovio, is Aria, with five- and seven-course tasting menus that explore traditional flavours in unusual ways. ariarestaurant.it

Januarius, named after the patron saint of the city, also plays with typical tastes – cabbage rolls stuffed with Carnaroli rice and Neapolitan cicoli mayonnaise, say – in an elegant dining room in Via Duomo. 00 39 081 014 5980

For traditional Neapolitan dishes – spaghetti with clams, Neapolitan meatballs – Trattoria San Ferdinando is a delightful family-run restaurant just off Via Toledo. Don’t miss the friarielli (broccoli rabe) if it’s on the menu. trattoriasanferdinando.com

This article was taken from the April 2024 issue of Food and Travel. To subscribe today, click here.

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