Why go?

Above the treeline on the 2,842m Weissfluhgipfel in eastern Switzerland, a handful of skiers make long, arcing turns across wide slopes. Their matchstick-like shadows are unhurried as they slide under the vast, glaciated ridges of the Silvretta and Albula ranges. This is Davos Klosters, one of Switzerland’s most prestigious ski regions, where the snow is soft, the sky deep-Alpine-blue and the air crisp. Yet, time your trip right and you won’t spend long in a lift queue. The reason? From 19 to 23 January, Davos will host thousands of political leaders, activists and celebrities for the World Economic Forum (WEF), as it has every year since 1971, directing the world’s gaze to the thrumming town in the valley bottom.

What to do

Six interconnected ski areas straddle the Landwasser and Prättigau valleys, and you can take your pick between the two wildly different towns that anchor them. Davos, a sort of mini metropolis, became famous in the 1860s after German doctor Alexander Spengler positioned it as a curative resort for tuberculosis patients. It began setting itself up as a winter sports heavyweight and by 1895, the Branger brothers were offering what are thought to be the world’s first downhill ski lessons. Snow sports remain the big draw, along with a full calendar of events.

Klosters, 12km away on the other side of the Weissfluhgipfel, is low key. While Davos hums with shopping centres, art galleries and restaurants with international cuisines, the rhythm here is slower, with timbered chalets, independent sports outfitters, pharmacies selling herbal remedies and artisan confiseries (buy a Bündner nusstort walnut cake to take home). And, while Davos’s nightlife can run until 6am, Klosters has a single club, Casa Antica, unchanged since 1959.

Where to stay

For Swiss comfort – the likes of solid pine furnishings, cloud-soft bedding and heavy curtains that reveal stunning views – try Silvretta Parkhotel Klosters, the oldest in the resort. Opened in 1870, it offers 80 rooms and suites beneath its quartet of gable roofs, some with Silvretta Glacier panoramas. Facilities span a bowling alley, library and piano bar, as well as a spa area with a pool, sauna and massages. Of the two restaurants, Stübli specialises in Swiss fare like cheese fondue or fondue Chinoise, a Swiss-Asian hotpot made with meat and vegetables, followed by buttery homemade apfelstrudel – ideal after a day of ski runs (the Gotschna/ Parsenn lift is five minutes’ walk from the hotel). ‘Klosters has something for everyone,’ says general manager Christian Erpenbeck. ‘Beginners will enjoy the gentle slopes at Madrisa, families will love the excellent local ski schools, off-piste adventurers will find opportunities to explore, and the cross-country ski trail is just a short walk from the hotel.’ His top tip for advanced skiers? ‘Don’t miss Weissfluhgipel Nord – it’s a perfect run.’ silvretta.ch

If you prefer to stay in Davos, Hotel Morosani Schweizerhof, part of a local hotel brand, feels elegant and warm, with art nouveau styling, oak panels and patterned fabric wallpaper. Its 100 rooms are spread across the main building, wing and villa, spanning Alpine and contemporary design, each equipped with Nespresso machines and goose down bedding. A spacious fitness area includes a Turkish steam bath and an additional Finnish sauna with relaxation room. Its restaurant, headed by Antonio di Caprio from Italy, serves Italian fare and award-winning wines. There’s also a more casual pizzeria for eating in or out. morosani.ch

It’s worth checking out the wide range of self-catering accommodation on offer too – from chalets to farms and mountain huts and even winter camping. RinerLodge, at the foot of the Rinerhorn ski area, offers dormitory accommodation and camping pitches by the Landwasser river. Source eggs, cheese and sausages from local produce vending machines for your camp dinner. davosklostersmountains.ch

Where to eat and drink

There’s no denying you need careful pre-planning to visit Davos Klosters around WEF week – many fashionable rooms and tables get booked up well in advance. But, says Christian Erpenbeck, general manager of Silvretta Parkhotel Klosters ‘There is hardly anyone skiing during the WEF, so on the mountains you can get a table for sure.’ And this is where some of the tastiest regional food can be found. Schiferstall, in an old Alpine stable with a sun terrace at the end of piste 22/23 in the Parsenn ski area, is hard to beat for value and views. It’s run by Jasmin and Raul, who spend their summers manning a small restaurant in Italian-speaking Switzerland and, along with thick, creamy Swiss fondue, the menu features Mediterranean-style dishes such as spaghetti ‘Emilio’, with mince, garlic and chilli, or vegetable quiche with spinach and leek. schiferstall.ch

Not far away, Berghaus Alte Schwendi, near Talstation Schifer, is similarly scenic with full-on rural Alpine character. Original pieces from the 1920s – a tiled stove centrepiece and thick wooden beams – make it feel cosy, especially as they’re combined with the steaming dishes of Bündner barley soup or Alpine macaroni with roast onions and apple purée, which are delivered to tables where seating is made snug with sheepskins. Round things off with a slice of apricot Streuselkuchen, a buttery crumble-and-sponge cake. alteschwendi.ch

Anyone with a sweet tooth will enjoy Erezsässhütte, where the cheesecake with cherry compote is as irresistible as the puff-pastry-clad apple with cinnamon yoghurt and walnut ice cream. Before dessert, you might try the house speciality, gaggerliwohl – chicken cooked outside on the Bavarian grill – or another of Erezsässhütte’s indulgent concoctions such as veal shank and polenta or Swiss meatballs with mixed mushrooms and salted cranberries. The hut, in a sunny clearing in Parsenn, also rents rooms half-board, with views of the Plessur Alps.
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Design-loving travellers will appreciate Restaurant Miraina, at Landstrasse 159 in Klosters, where local couple Michael and Seraina have converted a cowshed, Tempelgadä, into a modern Alpine masterpiece. Expect seasonal menus with options like Miraina’s take on capuns, a regional type of dumpling, oxtail ravioli or Swiss salmon with paprika and ginger. On Sundays, be sure to pick up one of Michael’s legendary cream slices. miraina.ch

Klosters institution Hotel Restaurant Wynegg opened in the late 19th century. These days it’s headed by locally raised chef Andri and his business partner Hitsch and retains a focus on Swiss classics made with seasonal, regional ingredients. Of these, Hitsch recommends pizokel, a type of pasta from Graubünden. ‘If you visit Graubünden, you absolutely must try pizokel at least once,’ he insists. ‘It’s a dish that was often cooked in the past because people usually had the necessary ingredients, such as milk, flour and eggs, readily available. At the Wynegg we mix these pizokel in various ways. The classic version is baked with bacon, onions and Alpine cheese.’ wynegg.ch

Time running out?

Travel Information

Travel Information

Getting There

Fly to Zurich from London with SWISS and transfer by train direct from the airport to either Davos Platz or Klosters (approx. 2.5 hours). swiss.com

Resources

For general information and help planning your trip, visit switzerland.com