Why go?

Everyone knows Budapest, but this charming Hungarian city seems to attract few foreign visitors. It’s their loss – on two occasions the country’s capital, and the wealthiest city in the Hungarian empire during the 17th century, Debrecen has a lasting legacy of art, architecture and culture. Spa waters and the Hortobágy National Park (a Unesco World Heritage site) are a great way to unwind, while nearby wine regions and plenty of local dishes mean it’s also a great place for people who love to discover food – particularly if your preference is for pork.

What to do

Debrecen is a festival city; during the warmer months the centre is awash with culinary events, from the Wine Festival in August to the fruit-brandy-infused Pálinka and Double Sausage Festival in September. Most of the activity centres around Kossuth Square, at the head of which is the lemon-hued Great Reformed Church. Just behind, pop into the 475-year-old Reformed College (refkoll.ro) for a glimpse of the city’s academic legacy. The Déri Museum (derimuz.hu) boasts an eclectic art and natural sciences collection, the highlight of which is painter Mihály Munkácsy’s 19th-century Christ trilogy. It’s worth the short tram ride to see the university buildings next to Nagyerdei Park, but save time to wander around the city shops. There are plenty of places to pick up a snack: pork specialist Húsmanufaktúra (husmanufaktura.hu); Soviet-era bakery Joker Uzletlanc (Csapo Utca 96); or the market hall, just east of the square, where you can stock up on honey cake. About half an hour from the city centre is the Unesco-listed Hortobágy National Park, home to the puszta, the largest grassland in central Europe. You could easily spend the better part of a day here and spot Hungarian grey cattle, twisted-horn racka sheep and mangalitza pigs, or catch a traditional Hungarian cowboy show.

Where to stay

Régi Posta (00 36 52 325 325, regiposta.hu), or Old Post Office Inn, is the most charming hotel in town. The ten simple rooms are prettily adorned in local themes and it’s dripping in history – built in the 1690s, King Charles XII of Sweden stayed here in 1714. Breakfast incudes a selection of their home-made, seasonal jams. Well-appointed five-star Hotel Divinus (00 36 52 510 900, hoteldivinus.hu) is located between the town centre and the university and has an extensive wellness centre.

Where to eat and drink

It’s rib-sticking food in these parts – the grasslands of Hortobágy are the birthplace of some of Hungary’s most iconic dishes, including goulash. Few meals here are suitable for vegetarians, let alone vegans. But for the rest of us, it’s delicious stuff – the mangalitza pig is practically a deity in Debrecen and things come smothered in, or cooked in, its immensely flavourful fat. At casual eatery Flaska (00 36 6 52 414 582, flaska.hu) tuck into noodles and pork knuckles paired with gomolya or göcseji cheeses, or Debrecen pancakes stuffed with chicken. At Hortobágy Inn (hortobagy.eu), try grey cattle goulash, grilled carp, or mangalitza pork fillet with bacon and mushroom cream. Here you can also sample slambuc, a dish of pork fat, potato, lebbencs pasta and paprika – cooked over an open fire for several hours. Simple and sinfully good. Back in the city centre, Régi Posta’s restaurant serves its Hungarian dishes with a side of live gypsy music, while sister pub Belga Étterem (00 36 52 53 63 73, belgaetterem.hu) is an atmospheric drinking hole. The best restaurant in the city has to be Ikon (00 36 30 555 7766, ikonrestaurant.hu). Chef Péter Pataky used to work at Hampshire’s Lime Wood and assembles his refined, modern Hungarian cuisine partly from produce plucked from his own kitchen garden. All washed down with fantastic local wines and unctuous glasses of sticky Tokaji, it’s a meal not to be missed. End your evening with a typically Hungarian experience at a ‘ruin pub’ – similar to an east London-esque bohemian venue, with music and free-flowing beer. Roncs bar (roncsbar.hu) is a good example.

Time running out?

The Tokaj wine region is only an hour away and the tourist office provides details on routes and wineries.

Travel Information

Travel Information

Hungary’s currency is the forint (£1 = HUF387). The country is an hour ahead of GMT and a two and a half hour flight from London.

Getting There

Wizz Air (wizzair.com) operates the only direct service between London and Debrecen, flying from Luton airport.

British Airways (ba.com) flies from London Heathrow to Budapest, from which Debrecen is a two-hour drive or train ride.

Resources

Hungarian Tourism (gotohungary.com) and Tourinform Debrecen (debrecen.hu) are good sources of information for planning your trip, learning about festivals and booking tours.