Why go?

A holy trinity of surf, subtropical sun and sand are pretty good for starters. But Durban, the continent’s largest port and South Africa’s third city, offers more than that. Far more. It stirs an invigorating blend of Zulu, Indian and English culture – albeit with a laid-back beach vibe – into the pot, blending mosques, temples and deities with the centre’s colonial Victorian architecture, and then adds a generous sprinkling of staggeringly lush vegetation. It’s more chilled than Jo’burg, smaller and less smug than Cape Town – and far more seductive in winter.

What to do

Dip into the warm Indian Ocean rollers off North Beach, secure in the knowledge that you’re protected by shark nets. Get there early in the morning and you may well see disciples of the Shembe Christian sect being baptised in the waves among the tanned surfers. If you’re inspired by the locals with their Oakley sunglasses and taut six packs, take a surf lesson at Addington Beach (learn2surf.co.za). For an alternative taste of the briny, visit the largest aquarium in the southern hemisphere at uShaka Marine World (ushakamarineworld.co.za), in the revamped warehouses of Point Waterfront, where underwater-viewing tunnels snake for 500 metres around four shipwrecks. Away from the ocean, Durban has markets. Fantastic markets. Victoria Street, opened in the 1870s, has Indian and Bangladeshi traders selling wonderful fabrics, spices and crafts. Walk further down Dr Yusuf Dadoo Street to explore the heart of the largest Indian community outside Asia, or head to the nearby Muthi Market for sangoma (witch doctors) and stalls groaning with traditional healing ingredients ranging from crocodile teeth to snake skins. Life’s a little more sedate at the Botanic Gardens (durbanbotanicgardens.org.za) where regular concerts are held in the grounds planted by colonial horticulturists. Keep it historic by visiting Morningside, a gorgeous Victorian suburb, for a nose around antique shops selling bric-and-brac from renovated houses.

Where to stay

Durban has several anodyne hotels along its Golden Mile but Protea Hotel by Marriott Durban Edward (00 27 31 337 3681, marriott.com) is the Art Deco grand dame of the beachfront. For a more boutique taste of city accommodation, try the 23-room Quarters Florida Road (00 27 31 303 5246, quarters.co.za), a coolly contemporary revamp of four classic Victorian properties with wrought-iron balconies, funky furniture and monochrome photographs. Alternatively, head north to Umhlanga Rocks where you’ll find Teremok Marine (00 27 31 561 5848, teremok.co.za), a light, bright stylishly gentrified sixties mansion.

Where to eat and drink

Welcome to the home of the bunny chow. Nothing so prosaic as rabbit stew but sturdy, hollowed-out half and quarter loaves of bread, brimming with mutton, chicken or prawn curry. The street food has taken South Africa by storm – it even has its own website – but Durban, with its vibrant Indian heritage, is the bunny’s cultural home with hordes of outlets including the celebrated Goundens. It’s enough to try one. For finer dining, try Cafe 1999 (00 27 31 202 3406, cafe1999.co.za), in the suburb of Berea, where modern Mediterranean dishes make good use of the Indian Ocean and include fresh seafood with tomato and parmesan risotto; and coriander, sesame and coconut crusted chicken. Alternatively, there are seasonal dishes, such as baby langoustine risotto, on the menu in neighbouring Morningside at 9th Avenue Bistro (00 27 31 312 9134, 9thavenuebistro.co.za). Durban’s astonishingly humid so you’ll want to drink at some point. Do it in serious style while watching the waves from The Lighthouse Bar at Umhlanga’s Oyster Box hotel (00 27 31 514 5000, oysterboxhotel.com) or, closer to the heart of town, with cocktails at the terribly hip Bean Bag Bohemia (00 27 31 309 6019). Finally, if you’re hooked by the surf vibe, sink a few cold ones at North Beach institution Joe Cools (00 27 31 332 9697).

Time running out?

Catch the funicular Skycar to the top of Moses Mabhida Stadium (mmstadium.com) for brilliant 360-degree views of the city and the coast. Rides cost £4.50.

Travel Information

Travel Information

Currency is the rand (ZAR). Durban is just under 11 hours’ flight from London and is two hours ahead of GMT between November and late March; one from April to late October.

Getting There

British Airways (ba.com), South African Airways (flysaa.com) and Virgin Atlantic (virginatlantic.com) fly to Durban from London Heathrow via Johannesburg.

Resources

The KwaZulu-Natal Tourist Authority (kzn.org.za) can provide information on getting to the city, sightseeing and tours.