Why go?

Balancing on sculpted sandstone cliffs above the Atlantic’s rolling waves, this sleepy 12th-century Portuguese fishing town – a 45-minute drive from Lisbon – is refreshingly free of tourist traps. Popular with Liboêtas escaping the capital, relish the languid pace (and balmy 22C October days), sauntering through traditionally tiled streets, hiking along the coastline and lazing on golden beaches, before feasts of sublime seafood. Ericeira is also Europe’s only World Surfing Reserve, so expect boards perched against pretty blue-and-white villas and a laid-back vibe.

What to do

Start out at Casa de Fernanda 00 35 1261 866 504– an unassuming café close to Praça da República boasting ocean views. Order a baker’s dozen of the town’s signature pastry, ouriço, a sweet almond cake that pairs perfectly with espresso. Bid tchau to the local clientele and wander the salt-stripped streets, winding between cobbled lanes flanked with vintage boutiques and handicraft shops, jazzily tiled alleyways and smartly painted churches and monuments. Afternoons should be spent basking on one of four easily accessible beaches. For sun-bleached sands head to Praia do Norte or Praia da Baleia. The smaller Praia dos Pescadores is less picturesque but it bustles with life as fishermen prepare their tackle and fend off determined cats. Check out the harbour and now-defunct seafood nurseries nearby, where lobsters and sea urchins were bred in ancient times. As the sun sets, clamber up Miradouro Ribeira d’Ilhas for panoramic views of the world’s best surfers in action. Don’t miss the chance to catch some waves yourself. Boards can be hired at schools along the waterfront and a bus runs daily between popular spots from 9am to 8pm. But be warned: much of the coast is unsafe for beginners. Try a lesson with Activity Surf Centre activitysurfcenter.com or head to novice-friendly Praia de São Sebastião. Alternatively, give paddleboarding a go at sandy Lizandro beach instead.

Where to stay

Near Ericeira’s old town, the cosy suites and beach lodges at Magic Quiver Surf Lodge 00 351 916 587 844, magicquiversurflodge.com may have been designed with surfers in mind, but their waterfront locations, sun-soaked terraces and minimalist interiors (with curios gathered on the owner’s travels in Malaysia) make them a great pick. Poised between the vast ocean and tranquil countryside, Villa Valbom 00 351 915 587 920, villavalbom.com provides luxurious B&B accommodation in 10 airy suites. Dip into one of two pools, explore the gardens or head to the beach, a 15-minute walk away. The spacious You and the Sea 00 351 261 243 370, en.youandthesea.pt has 35 apartments with beach access. It’s restaurant, Jangada, is worth a visit, too.

Where to eat and drink

Ask any local and they’ll tell you that the best seafood in Portugal is netted on Ericeira’s fishing boats. Unlike most regional bias, the statement holds true here. For a leisurely introduction to the Atlantic’s finest, visit Mar à Vista 00 351 261 862 928 and feast under ceilings hung with fishing paraphernalia. Silver platters come piled high with kettle-sized crabs, fiendishly difficult to harvest, but intensely flavoured percebes(goose barnacles), and the local delicacy of sea urchin. For fish, head to Clube Naval Praia da Assenta 00 351 261 855 077, where, despite the drive down a steep, twisty road, you’ll likely have to wait for a table. Locals flock here for pay-by-the-kilo bream, snapper and prawns barbecued over hot coals. For spectacular sunset views, book a street-side seat at Mars das Latas 00 351 912 218 423 and pair your picks from the fish-heavy petiscos menu with a bottle of vinho verde from their first-rate wine list. Escape the fish fanaticism at Taca da Boa Viagem tascadaboaviagem.com where cuts of beef are served by the breed, with steaks from Azores, Barrosã and Mirandesa cattle.

Time running out?

Join a Cheleiros Wine Tasting Tour with Ericeira Bike (£49pp) and peddle your way through the Mafra countryside enjoying tastings of jampal, the regional grape. ericeirabike.com

Travel Information

Travel Information

Currency is the euro (EUR). Time is the same as the UK. Flights from London to Lisbon take around 2 hours 45 minutes. Ericeira is a 30-minute drive from Lisbon Portela Airport. Taxis are readily available at the airport – expect the fare to cost around £60.

Getting There

easyJet flies from London Heathrow to Lisbon. easyjet.com

Tap Air Portugal flies from London City to Lisbon. flytap.com

Resources

Mafra Município is the local government and its website is packed with tips for visiting the town and beaches. cm-mafra.pt