Why go?

Not only is Exeter packed with history, quirky shops, cool cafés, interesting restaurants and lots of spaces in which to enjoy a lazy spring day, but it’s also a very manageable city. You can spend a weekend here, walk everywhere and experience everything you want without feeling as if you’ve had to travel across a small county to get to the next thing to see or do.

What to do

The pièce de résistance of Exeter is the cathedral – it’s what the word ‘magnificent’ was invented for. This medieval Gothic masterpiece has been around for more than 600 years and enjoying a picnic (or at least a Devon cream tea) on the green in front of Cathedral Church of St Peter is a must for every visitor (exetercathedral.org.uk). After enjoying the quiet buzz of the green, head for the nearby Underground Passages where you can explore a network of tunnels built for transporting fresh water to the city that dates back to the 14th century. Back in broad daylight, while the new shopping complex at Princesshay may appeal to high-street shoppers, for something a bit different head to the alternative shopping haven that is Gandy Street. Here you’ll find trendy independent shops selling everything from second-hand records and bespoke jewellery to collectible toys and quirky clothes. With a copy of that ‘lost’ Velvet Underground album under one arm and a hand-made glass vase under the other, head for Exeter’s Historic Quayside, second only to the cathedral on the visitor tick-list and just 10 minutes walk from the city centre. You’ll find craft workshops in the old warehouses and cellars as well as antique and textile shops and more than a smattering of places to grab a bite to eat. Catch a boat for a trip down the picturesque River Exe or just hop aboard Butts Ferry – a floating bridge – to enjoy the galleries and give yourself a few more options for lunch or dinner. Exeter also hosts the excellent Festival of South West Food and Drink (29 April-1 May, exeterfoodanddrinkfestival.co.uk) which brings the best of the county’s regional produce to the city.

Where to stay

Near the central train station you’ll find Queen’s Court Hotel (01392 272709, queenscourthotel.co.uk). Set in a Grade-II listed building with a history stretching back to 1840, this privately owned period townhouse has good-sized rooms, all mod cons, friendly staff and character too. Another Georgian townhouse is Silversprings (01392 494040, silversprings.co.uk), set away from the centre on a quiet street but still within easy reach of both main stations. With 10 bedroooms it’s intimate, but has a well-earned reputation as a quality, luxury bed and breakfast.

Where to eat and drink

Aside from Michael Caines, there’s plenty on offer, including Angela’s (01392 499038, angelasrestaurant.co.uk) with dishes such as Brixham day boat seabass with caramelised ginger and spring onions or Payhembury venison on puréed parsnip with red wine, rosemary, redcurrant and dark chocolate jus. For something more earthy, try The Fat Pig (01392 437217). Owned by a local pig farmer, this pub is all about real ales and hearty dishes such as home-cured ham from its own rare-breed pigs. Worth a trip to the outskirts of the city is Jack in the Green (01404 822240, jackinthegreen.uk.com). A pub with food, it was recently voted No. 52 in the UK’s top 100 restaurants thanks to plates including its own take on surf and turf: slow-braised pork belly with king prawns, sesame and ginger.

Time running out?

Be sure to visit Powderham Castle (01626 890243, powderham.co.uk), one of England’s oldest family homes. Sir Philip Courtenay began the castle as it stands now in 1391 and it remains in the same family today.

Travel Information

Travel Information

Exeter is around 3 hours’ drive from London, or just 2.5 hours by train.

Getting There

First Great Western (gwr.com) operates regular rail services to Exeter from London Paddington;
South West Trains (southwesttrains.co.uk) operates regular rail services from London Waterloo.

Resources

Heart of Devon (01392 665700, heartofdevon.com) and Exeter Visitor Information (01392 665700, visitexeter.com) provides all you need to plan your trip.