Why go?

For palaces, sculpture and some seriously good food. Soak up the extravagance of world-famous Renaissance architecture and cuisine, hidden in tiny courtyards and alleyways, but you have to know where to look…

What to do

See the sights early before the tourists rise. You really have to be in situ to appreciate the unchanged way of life in neighbourhoods like Santa Croce and San Frediano, as locals dive between café, panificio and deli. Make your first culture stop the Uffizi Gallery uffizi.firenze.it where you can see Botticelli’s The Birth of Venus and the brushstrokes of Caravaggio, Raphael and da Vinci. Book in advance to avoid the queues. Much of the historic centre has been pedestrianised, so head off on foot to the Duomo (cathedral), a 13th-century marble feast for the eyes, with a soaring 114m-high dome that offers panoramic views. Meander south to Piazza della Signoria with its mighty statues, including David, and find glorious frescoes inside the town hall, Palazzo Vecchio. Fashion lives on the square too, at the Gucci Museum guccimuseo.com where a 1979 Gucci Cadillac Seville is parked in a huge glass case, and a slick café overlooks the piazza. Contemporary art can be seen all around town thanks to street artist Clet Abraham, who humourously transforms street signs and buildings into works of art. On the south bank, look out for the ‘nose’ on the San Niccolò Tower. Cross over the Arno river via the medieval Ponte Vecchio, window-shopping the golden wares of its jewellery boutiques en route to the Pitti Palace polomuseale. firenze.it and the Boboli Gardens. Meander past fountains and groomed hedges, and look back to a wide sweep of the city.

Where to stay

Perched almost on the Ponte Vecchio is hotel Continentale 00 39 055 27262 lungarnocollection.com owned by the Ferragamo family. Beds are surrounded by white muslin curtains, with a hint of retro dolce vita throughout. Escape to the palatial Il Salviatino 00 39 055 904 1111, salviatino.com away in the cool of the hills that skirt the city. Seek solace in this 45-room restored villa with an impressive library and two-deck infinity pool. After a soak in a free-standing bath with a stunning vista over to the Duomo, retire to the terrace restaurant to dine on bistecca alla Fiorentina (T-bone steak). Hotel degli Orafi 00 39 055 26622, hoteldegliorafi.it has its own private, shaded terrace and banquet-style breakfasts of which the Medici would have approved.

Where to eat and drink

Start your day with a thick hot chocolate or espresso at historic café Rivoire rivoire.it on Piazza della Signoria. The best street food is at Mercato Centrale 00 39 055 239 9798, mercatocentrale.it where you can sample the local fennel finocchiona sausage with a glass of rosato. Just opened, La Ménagere 00 39 055 075 0600, lamenagere.it is a neat concept blending a pretty florist with a bloom-filled conservatory restaurant and coffee shop, in a warehouse-style building dating back to 1896. Sample sensational small dishes like cheese lollipops, seared tuna with fresh tomato sauce and Tuscan beef and bean stew. Ice cream has an ancient pedigree in Florence and is typically beautiful. Enjoy a scoop of stracciatella (white ice cream streaked with chocolate) at Perché no! 00 39 055 239 8969, percheno.firenze.it in business since 1939. All’Antico Vinaio 00 39 055 238 2723, allanticovinaio.com should also be on your list too. The tiny shop serves wines by the glass and huge mozzarella and prosciutto sandwiches. Trattoria 4 Leoni 00 39 055 218562, 4leoni.it does an excellent porcini risotto, and serious gourmands should reserve a table at Caffè dell’Oro 00 39 055 2726 8912, lungarnocollection.com for delicious gnocchi with wild boar ragout and tiramisu for two. Sip sundowners at La Terrazza in the Continentale hotel, best for Aperol cocktails and sweeping Arno views.

Time running out?

Float down the Arno in a punt-style wooden boat that used to transport sand for building. renaioli.filarete.eu

Travel Information

Travel Information

Currency is the euro. Florence is one hour ahead of GMT, and a two-hour flight from London. Cost to carbon-offset for this trip is £2.10, climatecare.org

Getting There

British Airways flies direct from London City. ba.com

Ryanair flies from London Stansted to Pisa, with Florence a 45-minute drive away. ryanair.com

Resources

FirenzeTurismo is the official website for attractions, events and useful information on the city and its surrounds. firenzeturismo.it