Frankfurt - Germany
Somewhere between the glasses of apfelwein and the historic Christmas market, Alicia Miller finds herself enthralled with this cosmopolitan German regional capital.
Travel Time 1hrs 40minSomewhere between the glasses of apfelwein and the historic Christmas market, Alicia Miller finds herself enthralled with this cosmopolitan German regional capital.
Travel Time 1hrs 40minOver 50 million people pass through Frankfurt’s airport, Europe’s second busiest, every year, but only a fraction of these venture out in the city itself – too bad for those who don’t, as they’re really missing out. Thoroughly modern, aside from a quaint restored Old Town, this commercial centre is awash with towering high rises and contemporary architecture. But modernism breeds creativity, and as a result you’ll find a flourishing artistic scene including interactive galleries and fusion restaurants. Festive charm sweeps the city in December; an annual Christmas market has been held here since 1393, and you can enjoy advent concerts, view the nativity scene, or take a ride on the historic steam train.
Bombings in 1944 devastated most of Frankfurt’s Old Town, but a restored area around Römberg, the city’s oldest central square, is full of 14th and 15th-century architectural gems, including gabled houses. To the east, spot the Gothic Frankfurt Cathedral – the tower survived the bombings, but the interior burned; rebuilt in the 1950s, it now houses a museum for religious objects. Nearby St Paul’s Church served as the National Assembly during the German Revolutions of 1848. A stretch along the southern bank of the Main river has been nicknamed Museum Embankment due to its hub of cultural institutions – there are 12 to choose from. The Städel (staedelmuseum.de) is packed with choice old masters; the Deutsches Film-museum (deutschesfilmmuseum.de) and the Museum für Moderne Kunst (mmkfrankfurt.de) are both fun and interactive. Book a show at the Alte Oper (alteoper.de) – throughout the season there are various concerts, including Handel’s Messiah. For sweeping views of the city head to the bar in the Commerzbank Tower, the tallest office block in Europe, or to Main Tower, where the viewing area is 200m above the city.
All white, from the exterior to the spotless rooms, The Pure (00 49 69 71 04 570, thepure.de) is a design-led hotel a few blocks from the train station; clumsy drinkers would be advised to stick to white wine in the bar – you’ll understand when you see it. Villa Kennedy (00 49 69 71 71 20, villakennedy.com) is a luxury hotel built around an early 20th-century mansion. South of the Main, it’s a world away from the city’s bustle.
Cosmopolitan Frankfurt boasts an international food scene, showcasing influences from around the world. With floor-to-ceilings windows looking out to the Main river, Frankfurter Botschaft (00 49 69 24 00 48 99, frankfurterbotschaft.de) serves imaginative fusion cuisine – try saddle of venison with spiced pumpkin purée and banana bread, or beef fillet with goose liver, parsnip mousse, truffles and celery. Heimat (00 49 69 29 72 59 94, heimatfrankfurt.com) is a cosy wine-focused restaurant where you can sample German-French dishes that change with the seasons; there is no English menu, but the friendly staff will guide you. Atmospheric Zarges (00 49 69 29 90 30, zargesfrankfurt.com) serves modern European dishes supplemented with a great German wine list; there is also a small confiserie in which to appease your sweet tooth. Apfelwein, or cider, is Hesse’s state drink, so no visit to Frankfurt is complete without a sampling – head to Apfelwein Föhl (apfelweinfoehl.de) for the traditional experience, where you might also munch on handkäse, a local sour-milk cheese. At the Christmas market, which takes place in Römerberg, Paulsplatz and Mainkai, you can stock up on all sorts of delights – mulled wine, baked apples, sausages, roasted chestnuts and lebkuchen.
Fans of poet Goethe should visit Goethe Haus (goethehausfrankfurt.de), his birthplace, now a museum.
Currency is the euro. Frankfurt is one hour ahead of GMT and a one hour, 35-minute flight from London.
Lufthansa (lufthansa.com) flies direct to Frankfurt from numerous locations in the UK.
Germanwings (germanwings.com) flies direct to Frankfurt from Edinburgh and London Stansted.
Frankfurt Tourist Board (frankfurt.de) and the German National Tourist Office (germany.travel) provide details on trips to Frankfurt, as well as listings for upcoming events.
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