Gdansk - Poland
Brimming with distinctive architecture, elegant old streets and riverside watering holes, there’s more to this Baltic port than its extraordinary history, says Kelly Satchell.
Travel Time 2hrs 10minBrimming with distinctive architecture, elegant old streets and riverside watering holes, there’s more to this Baltic port than its extraordinary history, says Kelly Satchell.
Travel Time 2hrs 10minOnce famed for its shipyards and Solidarity movement, Gdansk today is a holiday destination where colourful reconstructed architecture remains faithful to the city’s blend of Slavic and Germanic influences. Celebrate the 25th anniversary of the fall of the Iron Curtain by soaking up the port’s fascinating past, as well as its tempting glasses of warm, spiced, honeyed beer.
Walking along the cobbled lanes of the old city, clustered on the western side of the Motlawa river, is the best way to appreciate the Flemish influences in the tall, bright facades of the old burgher townhouses. After passing the medieval port crane along the quay, enter the Royal Route of Dluga through the opulent arched gatehouse, Green Gate. The town hall, now a museum hosting eclectic exhibitions, has some gems on show, but its real treat is the panoramic view from the top-floor gallery, from where you’ll be faced with the largest old brick church in the world, the gothic St Mary’s. Leading here is the romantic Mariacka Street, on which narrow buildings perched atop stoops are adorned with gargoyles. These keep watch over the various amber jewels displayed outside the galleries. Next, take the tram a couple of stops north to the famous shipyard, the Monument to the Fallen Shipyard Workers and the new European Solidarity Centre, ecs.gda.pl, an accomplished design comprising a mass of rusty metal sheets, intended to resemble the hull of a ship. Inside its five floors, which boast a library and winter garden, you can get to grips with the significant role the shipyard revolts in 1970 and 1980 played in paving the way to freedom for the satellite communist states. If you have time to spare, take a 20-minute train ride to nearby Sopot. Breathe in the rejuvenating Baltic breeze at this lively seaside and spa resort that has 4.5km of stunning sandy shores.
Creator of the modern thermometer, Daniel Fahrenheit, was born in Gdansk, and sleek boutique hotel Fahrenheit, 00 48 58 324 7400, fahrenheit.pl, bears his name. Well located to the north of the old city, it’s just a few minutes’ walk from the river and is next door to beer lovers’ paradise Degustatornia, 00 48 88 872 8272. The quayside Hanza Hotel, 00 48 58 305 3427, hotelhanza.pl, has a spa and an excellent restaurant, Kokieteria, where you can try the classic sour rye soup, zurek. For a room with an iconic view, Radisson Blu, 00 48 58 325 4444, radissonblu.com/hotelgdansk, is near Neptune Fountain.
Cosy restaurant Bar Pod Ryba, 00 48 58 305 1307, on Piwna Street will provide superb sustenance. Simple, hearty and excellent value, its giant tatties, crisp on the outside yet fluffy inside, are crammed with your choice of more than 40 Polish classics such as marinated herring and dill sauce, complemented by a hot rum or a spicy and sweet beer. On the subject of beer, Brovarnia, 00 48 58 320 1970, brovarnia.pl, is a microbrewery housed in a 17th-century granary, serving variations of wheat, gold and dark beverages. For finer dining, the compact and chic Metamorfoza, 00 48 58 320 3030, restauracjametamorfoza.pl, has exquisite and intriguing dishes on its tasting menu, including snails and mushrooms with parsley sponge cake, and beef tartare and bone marrow with white chocolate. Various home tinctures like plum and oak-barrelled cherry are also available. Waterside Goldwasser, 00 48 58 301 8878, goldwasser.pl, is the place to sample its famous namesake herbal liquor, sprinkled with 23-carat gold leaves. In Sopot, the intimate Bulaj, 00 48 58 551 5129, bulaj.pl, between the forest and beach, is a must, as is affable chef Artur Moroz’s goose in cherry sauce with a side of pumpkin barley risotto or locally caught zander with white wine, lemon, parsley and walnut. Leave room for unusual dessert combos such as borsch (beetroot soup) and meringue, chased down with a unique vodka.
In the ruins of atmospheric St John’s church, built on swampland, are tilted columns and protruding tombs.
Currency is the Polish zloty. Time is one hour ahead of GMT. Travel time is just over two hours from London. The cost to carbon-offset is £2. 24, visit climatecare.org
Wizz Air flies to Gdansk from London Luton. wizzair.com
Ryanair flies to Gdansk from London Stansted, Manchester, Birmingham, Leeds-Bradford, Bristol and Edinburgh. ryanair.com
Polish Tourist Board For more on accommodation and sightseeing in Gdansk, visit poland.travel/en/gdansk
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Min Temp | -4 | -4 | -1 | 1 | 6 | 9 | 11 | 11 | 8 | 4 | 0 | -2 |
Max Temp | 1 | 1 | 4 | 9 | 15 | 18 | 20 | 20 | 16 | 11 | 5 | 1 |
mm | 1 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 2 | 2 | 2 | 2 | 1 | 1 | 1 |
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