Genoa - Italy
Keya Modessa enjoys a generous helping of pesto genovese and loses herself in the historic port city’s old town where she finds superb architecture and lively locals.
Travel Time 1hrs 50minKeya Modessa enjoys a generous helping of pesto genovese and loses herself in the historic port city’s old town where she finds superb architecture and lively locals.
Travel Time 1hrs 50minTo discover the Ligurian capital through a maze of pedestrian alleys, a buzzing harbour and a hotchpotch of colourful brick buildings stacked side by side. Historically, the city was an important hub for trade transport via both sea and land but this changed with the arrival of foreign holidaymakers. In recent years, this Italian port city has been spruced up to reveal a remarkable variety of art and architecture and lively local culture. Celebrate the start of spring and pay a visit to Euroflora, a 10-day flower festival (euroflora2011.it).
The city’s historic old port, Porto Antico, is a good place to start. Take a ride on Il Bigo, a bizarre-looking rotating lift that gives you 360-degree views of the whole city. Back at ground level, stroll towards the Palazzo San Giorgio to admire the frescos depicting St George, one of the city’s patron saints. Wander into the old town through ancient arcades before stopping by a friggitoria to enjoy a plate of Genovese fish and chips. Descend into the caruggi, a tangle of dark, narrow, cobblestoned streets, where you’ll find ornate wooden doors, busy squares and tiled fountains, and eavesdrop on the banter and bustle of the locals. Weave your way onwards to the majestic San Lorenzo cathedral; from here, you’ll also see the elaborate white facade of Palazzo Ducale, the city’s cultural centre. Take in the atmosphere in the Piazza de Ferrari, located in the heart of the city, which attracts crowds with its imposing architecture and vast bronze fountain. Moving onwards, head north towards Via Garibaldi and you’ll soon see why this road was once known as the Golden Street; it’s a magnificent, 16th-century architectural showpiece. Declared a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2006, today three of the 40 buildings house art galleries, collectively known as the Musei di Strada Nuova (museidigenova.it) – all worth a visit. End your day by taking the lift from Piazza Portello up to Spianata di Castelletto, a breezy terrace with panoramic views. Treat yourself to a gelato and watch the sun set over the city, sea and surrounding hills.
The NH Marina (00 39 010 25391, nhhotels.com) is set in Genoa’s old port close to the seafront promenade and an easy stroll away from the city’s main points of interest. Enjoy breakfast on the panoramic terrace in the charming Hotel Colombo (00 39 010 251 3643, hotelcolombo.it). This small, family-run place offers cosy rooms and friendly service.
Absorb the magnificent views as you peruse the menu at Il Genovino (00 39 010 831 1362, ilgenovino.it). Run by the Babbini family, you can expect a friendly welcome and a typically Genovese selection of dishes including handmade pasta twists, trofie. Fish dominates the menu and most is caught locally; try scorfano, fish ravioli served in a creamy sauce. If hunger strikes while you’re trying to navigate your way around the lanes and alleys in the old town, stop off for some focaccia con formaggio, flat bread with a cheese filling, or choose from a variety of other toppings including ham, chocolate, pesto and mozzarella – you’ll find them served at stalls located on practically every corner here. Lupo Antica Trattoria (00 39 010 267 036, lupoanticatrattoria.it) is hidden down a narrow side street in the old town. Inside, it feels charmingly homely. Run by Guido and Mary, everything is hand-made, from primi piatti such as minestrone with pesto to the tempting desserts. Don’t leave without trying a slice of a Ligurian specialty, sacripantina; it’s a complex and delicious layered cake made with vanilla and chocolate cream and wine.
Stock up on produce from the region including cheese, wine, olives, ham, and, of course, some of the world-famous basil, pine nut and parmesan sauce, pesto alla genovese. An open-air market selling local specialities is held every second weekend of the month next to Palazzo Ducale.
Currency is the euro. Genoa is an hour ahead of GMT and a 1-hour and 55-minute flight from London.
British Airways (0844 493 0787, ba.com) has daily direct flights from London Gatwick to Genoa.
Ryanair (ryanair.com) operates direct daily flights from Stansted to Genoa.
Liguria Tourism on Via Roma (00 39 010 530 821, italia.it/liguria) provides practical information on visiting the city and information on hotels, restaurants and how to make the most of your time in the city.
Italian Tourist Office (020 7408 1254; italia.it) provides practical information on visiting Genoa.
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mm | 4 | 4 | 4 | 4 | 5 | 3 | 3 | 3 | 3 | 4 | 4 | 4 |
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