Why go?

It may be more gritty than glamorous, but this northern Italian city will seduce you with its distinctive dialect and food. Christopher Columbus is Genoa’s most famous export – along with pesto, which tastes vastly superior here. Get lost in the narrow tangle of side streets known as caruggi in the old town, crane your neck at the glittering palazzi and ride the city’s dozen or so curious elevators and funiculars that save your legs on its undulating hills and pathways. Now is the perfect time to visit to enjoy spring sunshine and the new food hall at Mercato Orientale – having just reopened after a multimillion-euro revamp, it’s the place to go to enjoy different Ligurian restaurants and typical Genoese street food.

What to do

In 2006, 42 of the 150 Genoese palazzi became Unesco World Heritage Sites. The most beautiful are Palazzo Rosso, Palazzo Bianco and Palazzo Tursi museidigenova.it – all of which are open to the public and house decadent interiors. With its trees, squares and lively chatter, the San Vincenzo district provides an authentic glimpse into local life. Be sure to duck into Panarello 00 39 010 561 037, panarello.com on Via Galata for the best pandolce, a brioche-style cake with toasted pine nuts and candied fruit. Or for something savoury, you could also try the Pesto Calling masterclass artes.travel/pesto-calling led by market trader Luca Spanedda. There’s no escaping Christopher Columbus in Genoa, so embrace his memory and visit the 18th-century reconstruction of the house where he grew up on Piazza Dante (the original was destroyed by the French in 1684). The Galata Museo del Mare galatamuseodelmare.it will also help you navigate the city’s seafaring history – it’s one of Italy’s largest maritime museums.

Where to stay

The smartest option in Genoa is Grand Hotel Savoia 00 39 0102 7721, grandhotelsavoiagenova.it which was built in 1897 (cue lots of art nouveau detailing) and offers chandeliers and antiques galore. Your chance to stay in a grand Genoa palazzo starts at Palazzo Grillo 00 39 010 247 7356, hotelpalazzogrillo.it – you’ll feel like Genoese aristocracy as you pass through its vaulted entrance and ascend the monumental staircase. Steps from the Unesco sites on Via Garibaldi, Vecchia Genova 00 39 010 251 0017, vecchiagenova.com is a gem of a B&B offering three rooms and a rare sun terrace. Valéry Guest House 00 39 329 002 9031, valeryguesthouse.com is named after Paul Valéry, the French poet who once stayed here as a resident in 1892. Located in Palazzo Montanaro, it offers two stylish rooms with views over the old town.

Where to eat and drink

Ligurian street food is on the menu at cosy Ostaja San Vincenzo 00 39 010 565 765. The torta (vegetable pie) is the name of the game here – it’s a Genoese speciality usually eaten at lunch, or with an aperitif. You can’t come to Genoa without trying the focaccia. This bread, crisp on the outside, pillowy in the middle, is found all over Italy but it’s a bit different in Genoa – atter, made with local olive oil and eaten all day long. Zena Zuena 00 39 010 561 232, zenazuena.com next to Mercato Orientale makes some of the best. Antica Osteria di Vico Palla 00 39 010 246 6575, osteriadivicopalla.com – a bustling osteria in the old harbour – specialises in cucina povera (peasant food): think octopus ragu with squid ink trenette. Despite being in a Best Western City hotel, Locanda Pesciolino 00 39 010 553 2131, locandapesciolino.it dishes up surprisingly imaginative fare such as 60-degree squid with potatoes and pesto, and turnip gnocchi with clams. GE 8317, 00 39 010 856 8866, ittiturismogenova.it – which is named after a ship – keeps the tradition of shermen owning their own restaurants and supplying the menu themselves alive. The view from the outside tables down the narrow Via Aurora to the beach is timeless. Enjoy fresh sh, cooked simply and served with a glass of crisp white.

Time running out?

Only 18 fishing boats operate out of Genoa today. If you’re planning a trip to Boccadasse to visit GE 8317, join one of the cooperative fishermen for a fishing experience in an old gozzo (traditional boat) so you can eat what you catch.

Travel Information

Travel Information

Currency is the euro. Genoa is 2 hours ahead of GMT. Flight time from London is around 2 hours. The cost to carbon offset is £2. 56. For more details visit climatecare.org

Getting There

British Airways flies regularly from London Gatwick. ba.com

Ryanair has daily flights to Genoa Cristoforo Colombo Airport from London Stansted. ryanair.com

Resources

Visit Genoa is the local tourist board’s website and is packed with inspiration and information to help plan your trip. visitgenoa.it