Why go?

A jumble of medieval streets, canals and chocolate shops, Ghent packs a lot in, though pleasingly without the crowds. A beloved destination to those in the know, the capital of East Flanders – which marks the centenary of the First World War this year – is made for strolling. A youthful buzz cuts through the classical architecture, much like in Amsterdam, and centuries- old buildings reveal feasts of hearty Flemish cooking, decadent confections and Trappist beer, too. Ghent has long been known as the city of rebels – and there’s always a surprise or two in store.

What to do

The best view of Ghent is from the middle of St Michael’s Bridge. The ornate facades of the Graslei and Korenlei quaysides reflect serenely in the River Lys, while the city’s best landmarks – St Nicholas’s Church, St Bavo’s Cathedral and the Belfry – line up in front of you. Start with a pootle along the riverbank, where grain was unloaded by merchants as far back as the 11th century. Cross the trip-trap Grasbrug bridge, hopping out of the way of trams and bicycles as you go, and stop to admire the Groentenmarkt, a tiny square that houses a craft market on weekends, flanked by the cavernous Butchers’ Hall, Ghent’s smallest pub (with a huge selection of beer), Galgenhuis 00 32 474 93 00 34 and shops like Tierenteyn-Verlent, which has been making mustard since 1790. It’s still ladled out fresh into jars from a giant barrel. Nearby is the Town Hall, whose wings were constructed in starkly contrasting styles. Opposite, a stone relief depicts the Roman legend of prisoner Cimon, whose daughter kept him alive by breastfeeding him. It sits above the entrance to the old city jail, such is Ghent’s penchant for quirky humour. Around the corner, you can climb the narrow stone stairs of the 91m-tall Belfry for a bird’s eye view over the rooftops. Next up, St Bavo’s is an imposing gothic monument that’s filled with artistic opulence. Flemish paintings, shimmering marble and a soaring vaulted ceiling aside, it’s also home to The Adoration of the Mystic Lamb by the Van Eyck brothers, drawing the faithful since 1432. And for a heady dose of Flemish masters, check out the Museum of Fine Arts (MSK) mskgent.be – an impressive gallery where you could just as easily be viewing the works of 1920s modernists, too.

Where to stay

Ghent Marriott 00 32 9 233 93 93, marriott.com has an excellent location in the heart of the old town. Its spacious rooms come equipped with king-sized beds, armchairs and writing desks. Breakfast is served overlooking the quayside, with a generous choice of healthy and indulgent options – including those all-important Belgian waffles. Fancy the feel of a family home? At friendly B&B Big Sleep bigsleep.be breakfast is shared around a long wooden table. The restored 19th-century townhouse boasts a heated outdoor pool and view over the canal. Those with an eye for design should check out 1898 The Post 00 32 9 391 53 79, zannierhotels.com – set in the spectacular old post office. It has 38 charming rooms and a stylish cocktail bar.

Where to eat and drink

Diners are always well fed at Mémé Gusta 00 32 9 398 23 93, memegusta.be which specialises in ‘grandma’s cooking’. Expect stews, stoemp (mashed potatoes and vegetables) topped with sausage, and mastel – a bread that’s buttered, sprinkled with brown sugar and ironed flat. Don’t be fooled by the artfully shabby decor at casual dining spot De Superette 00 32 9 278 08 08, desuperette.be because the food here comes courtesy of Belgian star chef Kobe Desramaults. Menus are pared back to just a few carefully curated options – plus wood-fired pizzas and home-made breads. Take a seat at Café Theatre 00 32 9 265 05 50, cafetheatre.com – set in the city’s opera house – for classic dishes in elegant surrounds. Or hunch over tables at the flower market across the road, where you join locals in quaffing fresh oysters and champagne.

Time running out?

For a taste of Ghent’s unique food and drink, book yourself on an insiders’ ‘nibbling tour’ (£14pp). vizit.be

Travel Information

Travel Information

Currency is the euro. Time is 1 hour ahead of GMT. Journey time to Ghent is just under 3 hours.

Getting There

Eurostar runs regular services from London St Pancras International to Brussels-South, which takes around 2 hours. The train to Ghent is a further 30 minutes. eurostar.com

Brussels Airlines flies from London. brusselsairlines.com

Resources

Visit Flanders and Visit Ghent are great resources and have websites that are full of inspiration. visitflanders.com visit.gent.be