Why go?

Gijón is a coastal city that has repurposed its industrial past. The bustling port is still there but so, too, are the lively cider bars and superb seafood, while its 5,000 years of history can be seen through the impeccably preserved Roman ruins, Baroque architecture and modern sculpture scattered through streets and parks. Visit in July for colourful Semana Negra (5–14 July) semananegra.org – one of Europe’s largest literary fringe festivals, when a carnival atmosphere falls upon the city. Tune in to the festival’s own radio station or pick up a copy of the daily what’s-on broadsheet, produced exclusively for the festival.

What to do

Start in the old fishing quarter of Cimadevilla at the Campo Valdés Roman Baths museos.gijon.es where a mix of 3D reconstructions and original artefacts transport you back 2,000 years to how the spa would have once looked. Next, climb Santa Catalina Hill, where Eduardo Chillida’s vast symbol of the city Elogio del Horizonte (In Praise of the Horizon) looms over the Cantabrian Sea. Venture inside to hear the soothing sounds of the waves. Playa de San Lorenzo is Gijón’s main beach. Soak up the sun, then explore the pretty promenade lined with restaurants and ice-cream parlours. A stroll over to the west side will reveal La Escalerona, a grand stairway and art deco clock erected in the 1930s. If wild and rugged shores are more your thing, take a trip out to Playa de Estaño. It’s just a 14-minute drive from the city centre, but this beautiful craggy cove is often empty of crowds.

Where to stay

Gijón is an entirely walkable city. Whether you stay beachside, in the rural outskirts or in the heart of the plazas, you’ll be within easy reach of the main draws. After starring in José Luis Garci’s Oscar-winning film Volver a Empezar, Hotel Asturias hotelasturiasgijon.es gained many new fans, helped by its central Plaza Mayor location. Sandwiched between the marina and San Lorenzo beach, its 87 rooms combine an art-deco aesthetic with modern touches. For something more homely, follow the Piles River to Parador de Gijón parador.es – a 40-room bolthole occupying an ancient mill in the grounds of Isabel la Católica Park. Meanwhile, El Môderne Hotel elmodernehotel.com drastically raises the style stakes and is best suited for urbanites who value their creature comforts. Its 47 rooms are all soft greys and moody mushroom shades, with stark white marble bathrooms.

Where to eat and drink

No visit to Gijón is complete without experiencing the city’s most famous refreshment – cider. A tour at Sidra Piñera sidrapinera.es will take you step by step through its production. As the cider here is flat, it is poured from a great height to aerate the bubbles. Try your hand at pouring a glass – it’s not as easy as it looks. Housed in the former fish market in a light-filled dining room, Restaurant Auga restauranteauga.com celebrates the finest Cantabrian catch. Order the langostas frescos, plump prawns served with Iberian bacon, or the Celeiro hake, which comes doused in local sidra. Asturia is home to 46 varieties of cheese, including the much-loved Cabrales. Michelin-starred La Salgar lasalgar.es is nestled in the grounds of the Museum of the Asturian People. It serves the blue cheese in torto, a traditional corn fritter, which is then smothered in caramelised onions. Gijón has long loved sweet treats, at one point the city boasted more patisseries per capita than any other in Spain. The Gijón Goloso gijon.info (5 tastings £6, 10 tastings £11.50) is your cake passport to the city’s best. Stop by Confitería Biarritz 00 34 985 36 00 45 for casadiella, a delicate pastry cone filled with walnut paste. And try princesitas at Confitería La Playa 00 34 985 34 33 28 – beautifully packaged egg-yolk yellow sweets that taste like marzipan.

Time running out?

Visit the Museum of the Asturian People for a bizarre yet fascinating insight into the city. Exhibits include a working cider press, bagpipes and a folk instrument display that nods to the year’s agricultural celebrations. museos.gijon.es

Travel Information

Travel Information

Currency is the euro (EUR). Time is 1 hour ahead of GMT. Flight time from London is around 2.5 hours. Asturias Airport is 42km from the city centre. Buses run daily from 6am to midnight and the journey takes around 45 minutes. aena.es

Getting There

Iberia flies direct from London Gatwick to Asturias. iberia.com

Vueling offers regular flights on the same route. vueling.com

Resources

Gijón Tourism is the official tourist board. Its website offers a wealth of helpful information. turismo.gijon.es