Girona - Spain
Costa Brava’s capital offers all the draws of Spain’s larger cities, but on a more intimate scale. Alicia Miller dines on fine Catalan cuisine and explores the Jewish quarter.
Travel Time 2hrs 10minCosta Brava’s capital offers all the draws of Spain’s larger cities, but on a more intimate scale. Alicia Miller dines on fine Catalan cuisine and explores the Jewish quarter.
Travel Time 2hrs 10minGirona is like all the good bits of nearby Barcelona put together on a smaller scale with fewer tourists and friendlier locals. Okay, so there’s no beach, but Costa Brava is at your fingertips, plus there’s more than enough in the city to keep you going for a weekend. What’s your fancy – medieval history? Tick. One-of-a-kind architecture? Tick. Great food? Big, bold tick – Catalan chefs are among the world’s most decorated. Spend a few days here and you’ll want to return; kiss the derrière of the stone lioness outside Saint Feliu church and legend says you’re destined to come back.
Girona has serious history, and some parts of the city have changed relatively little since the Middle Ages. Start at Saint Pere church, in the city’s north – around here you can stroll through enchanting archways, gardens and winding streets, and end up at the 12th-century Arab Baths. Press on and you’ll hit the cathedral, which has an impressive treasury containing a priceless medieval tapestry. Move on to the Call, the old Jewish quarter which was once one of Spain’s most significant. Its main street, La Força, follows the old Roman Hercules road and is interspersed with narrow, atmospheric alleyways. Visit the Jewish Museum (00 34 972 216 761) for a fascinating look at medieval Jewish life. Nearby, Casa Maso (rafaelmaso.org) pays homage to Girona’s answer to Gaudi, Rafael Maso. The architect designed numerous buildings in the city and region, including this, his own home, whose enchanting, art deco interior overlooks the river Onyar. Wander along the Rambla de la Libertat and cross the river at the bright red Pont de Ferro bridge. Look familiar? It was designed by the Eiffel company. From here, take in the view of the sherbert-hued buildings that line the Onyar’s east bank. The Museu del Cinema (museudelcinema.cat) isn’t just the preserve of film buffs; it delves into the fascinating history of the medium and has an extraordinary collection of early cinematic devices. Sunset is the perfect time to scale the city walls. They flank the whole east of the historic centre and provide a bird’s eye view of Costa Brava’s beautiful capital.
Only a short stroll from the cathedral, Hotel Llegendes (00 34 972 220 905, llegendeshotel.com) has pleasant, modern rooms with décor inspired by the city’s history. It has a café-bar on the ground floor which can get quite lively on weekend nights. Hotel Ciutat de Girona (00 34 972 483 038, hotelciutatdegirona.com) has 44 comfortable, well-equipped rooms, and also occupies a prime position in the historic district.
This city is a dining destination of international calibre – after all, El Celler de Can Roca (00 34 972 222 157, cellercanroca.com) is ranked second-best restaurant in the world. Not without merit, as the three Roca brothers produce some incredible plates in their temple to gastronomy, located on a quiet stretch of Can Sunyer. Should you fail to bag a reservation, you can still get a flavour of Jordi Roca’s desserts at their ice cream parlour, Rocambolesc Gelateria (00 34 972 416 667, rocambolesc.com). The fanciful flavour combos include sheep’s milk ice cream with cotton candy. If you’re up for making the pilgrimage complete, you can even drive half an hour outside the city centre to dine at the Roca family eaterie – where the brothers honed their skills – Restaurant Can Roca (00 34 972 597 012). Cal Ros (00 34 972 219 176, calrosrestaurant.com) is another of the city’s Catalan fine-dining options. Located by the river, Bubbles (00 34 972 226 002, gastrobubbles.com) produces a fine lunchtime tasting menu with wine pairings. La Penyora (00 34 972 218 948) is a cosy spot for casual regional cuisine, and Boira (00 34 972 219 605), on the edge of Plaça Independencia, is a reliable spot for tapas. Of course, the city’s daily market, Mercat del Lleó, has everything you could want for a picnic or a meal on the go.
Torrón, a nougat, is a city speciality – stock up at Torrons Victoria Candela on Carrer Anselm Clavé.
Currency is the euro. Girona is one hour ahead of GMT, and is two hours’ flight from London.
Ryanair (ryanair.com) flies from Birmingham, Bournemouth, Bristol, Luton, Stansted, Manchester and Newcastle. Iberia (iberia.com) flies to Barcelona, from which Girona is a one-hour, 15-minute drive.
Costa Brava Tourism (costabrava.org) is a great resource for planning your trip, as is Girona Tourism (girona.cat).
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