Why go?

This famous spa town is the perfect jumping off point for a visit to the Yorkshire Dales, but is also an attraction in its own right, with charming Victorian streets built in Yorkshire stone hung with baskets of cascading blooms, and always a warm welcome.

What to do

Discover the remarkable architectural and cultural legacy the Victorians developed in this city, which started out as two tiny hamlets before a gentleman by the name of William Slingsby discovered a mineral spring bubbling up in the late 16th century. The natural starting point is the Royal Baths complex. Opened in 1897, it is now home to the tourist information centre and a number of other businesses – including a Chinese restaurant which occupies the baths’ magnificent former entrance hall. Thankfully, you can still enjoy a pummelling and pampering here at the Turkish Baths and Spa. To see just how far spa treatments have come, visit the Royal Pump Room Museum to discover how steaming mud baths (made with peat brought from the Yorkshire Moors) and a few glasses of stinking water from ‘the strong sulphur well’ were some of the treatments prescribed to recuperating Victorians. You can still ‘take the waters’ if you so desire – but hold your nose as you do, as the sulphur smell is overwhelming. As well as the museum’s main collection, there are incidental displays of Egyptian relics and Fabergé jewellery, left behind by some of the wealthy Victorian collectors and visitors. A short stroll from the museum are the Valley Gardens, where 35 of Harrogate’s original mineral springs surfaced. All those minerals must have something to do with the thriving blooms and foliage in this beautifully maintained garden; even the brassicas in the allotment look prize-winning. Near the eastern entrance is the Mercer Art Gallery (harrogate.gov.uk/museums), which houses more than 2,000 works from the 19th and 20th centuries. Or go in search of more culture in the restored Royal Hall (royalhall.co.uk), an Edwardian gem. Next door is the renowned Harrogate International Centre (harrogateconventioncentre.co.uk).

Where to stay

In the centre of town in a row of converted townhouses the Hotel du Vin (0845 365 4438, hotelduvin.com) is stylish and unpretentious, and has a good bistro with a fine wine list, naturally. A short walk uphill from the Royal Hall, The Bijou bed and breakfast (01423 567 974, thebijou.co.uk) is well placed, with 10 spacious rooms, excellent breakfasts and charming hosts. A cheery Yorkshire welcome is also assured at Wynnstay House bed and breakfast (01423 560 476, wynnstayhouse.com), where landlady Tracey Davis was recently shortlisted for the Friendliest Landlady of the Year at the Bed and Breakfast Awards 2010.

Where to eat and drink

A must is Betty’s tearoom (01423 814008; bettys.co.uk) in Parliament Street, on the corner of the elegant Montpellier Quarter (montpellierharrogate.com). Opt for a cup of Betty’s house blend tea and a ‘fat rascal’ – a cross between a scone and a rock cake, studded with almonds and cherries – in the downstairs café, or book a table in the refined Imperial Suite upstairs and watch the world go by over afternoon tea, complete with delicate patisseries. By night, dine on the hot shellfish platter at the Drum and Monkey (01423 502 650, drumandmonkey.co.uk) in Montpellier Gardens, or seek out Van Zeller nearby (01423 508 762, vanzellerrestaurants.co.uk), an award-winning restaurant with an accomplished menu comprising local ingredients such as New Moor rose veal and sea trout from the coast. On fine days, pick up local cheeses and deli meats from Weetons (weetons.com) on West Park Street for a picnic in the Valley Gardens. Order ice cream to share in the Ripley pavillion café in the park.

Time running out?

Swing by Yorkshire Agricultural Society’s award-winning farm shop and deli, Fodder (01423 546 111, fodderweb.co.uk). Eighty five per cent of its products are from farmers and artisan producers in Yorkshire and the Humber.

Travel Information

Travel Information

Harrogate is around two hours and 40 minutes by train or four hours by car from London.

Getting There

Virgin Trains East Coast (eastcoast.co.uk) operates frequent services from London King’s Cross to Leeds and York, with onward connections to Harrogate operated by Northern Rail (northernrail.org).

Resources

Welcome to Yorkshire (0844 888 5123; yorkshire.com) Provides all the information you need to plan a visit to Harrogate.