Why go?

Set between lowland countryside, the warm South China Sea and the busy Thu Bon river in central Vietnam, it’s easy to fall for the charms of this historic Unesco World Heritage Site port city. Not only is it a great stop-off point for trips to the Imperial City at Hue, 125km north, but on 18 June, Hoi An celebrates its Lantern Festival. On the night of the full moon, to honour it ancestors, the Old Town closes to traffic and goes back to basics, with bright lights switched off in exchange for the mellow glow of the ubiquitous lanterns that adorn its streets. Locals burn fake $100 notes in exchange for luck and prosperity while fishermen thank Lady Thien Hau, the goddess of the sea, by sending lanterns along the river.

What to do

The compact, easily navigated Old Town is full of life, with a relaxed atmosphere that lends itself to a slow pace. Wake early to enjoy the tropical climes before the heavy heat of the day, (afternoons here can tickle a humid 38C). Once an international trade hub, Hoi An was virtually untouched by tourism until the late Nineties. Fortunately globalisation hasn’t overwhelmed the place, and the harmonious influences of China, Japan and Spain remain tangible in its relics. Start at the Japanese Covered Bridge, where you can buy tickets to the heritage sites of the Old Town for around £4 (valid for ten days), providing access to a vast number of venues. Flit in and out of the likes of the gorgeous 17th-century Assembly Hall, Chua Ong Temple and a host of beautiful pagodas and merchant houses as you pad the narrow streets. The bursts of colour across the centuries-old buildings are impressive, and an array of vendors selling textiles, antiques and homewares are there to be bartered with. A cup of thick iced Vietnamese coffee should be tried along the way, so drop into Bep Truong, a stylish coffee and book shop with a rooftop café. A cycle ride over to Cam Nam island showcases a more peaceful side of day-to-day life: fisherman teasing their lines and local kids playing alongside.

Where to stay

A pretty five-minute walk from the main thrall, Anantara skirts the banks of the Thu Bon. Large suites come equipped with porches and daybeds overlooking the river and the hotel’s lush gardens. On the other side of town, Essence Hotel & Spa is a homely option and a good stepping off point for exploring of an evening. Close to the Japanese Covered Bridge, Hotel Royal sofitel.com has a grand, French-style presence: its floral-lined pool and dusky pink umbrellas offer a feminine touch, and its riverside bar does a mean sundowner. And although slightly out of town, the luxe Nam Hai ghmhotels.com has a beach address that’s hard to beat, and its villas are chic, contemporary and minimalist.

Where to eat and drink

It’s staggering how many fantastic food options there are here – you can’t go too far wrong following your nose for the fragrant chilli, lemongrass, coriander and ginger that characterise the region. Look out for specialities such as fresh, white rose dumplings, cao lau (pork, noodles and veg) and banh xeo (savoury rice-paper pancakes) at the buzzy Central Market. With its tiny kitchen, Banh Mi Phuong does the best banh mi (Vietnamese baguettes) in town. Order the pork deluxe with thin slices of roast pork, ham and cha lua (meatloaf) served with homemade mayonnaise, pickled carrots and daikon, fresh mint, coriander and chillies on thin-crust bread. Morning Glory msvytastevietnam.com is a top option for fresh local salads and cao lau. Here, shredded green mango is the perfect accompaniment to spicy chicken, making for a superb lunch. Ancient Faifo ancientfaifo.com.vn located in an old merchant’s house, dishes up traditional favourites: the sticky pork is perfectly cooked and the mango and lotus salad is fresh as can be.

Time running out?

A perfect way to end a trip is with a crepuscular cruise along the river. Shop around: a number of boats leave from Bach Dang street daily, skirting the small fishing villages close by.

Travel Information

Travel Information

Currency is the Vietnamese dong. Time is seven hours ahead of the UK. Fastest journey time from London is around 15 hours.

Getting There

Vietnam Airlines flies to Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City daily then to Da Nang, around 14km from Hoi An. vietnamairlines.com

Emirates has daily flights from London via Dubai to Ho Chi Minh City, where you can connect for Da Nang. emirates.com

Resources

Hoi An Tourism has helpful local info. hoiantourism.com

Vietnam Tourism is a hub of information, particularly for those planning trips to more than one location. vietnamtourism.com