Hong Kong 16

Hong Kong - China

A cornucopic clash of cultures sets the scene for this lively city, where street food stalls sit alongside Michelin-starred masters. Fiona Sims heads east to sample the lot

Travel Time 12hrs 10min

Why go?

From its delectable dim sum trolleys to swanky restaurants, Hong Kong puts on a feast like few others. Notable Western chefs cook alongside emerging Cantonese talent, showing off both new and old skills, blending East and West with twists on the classics. November is a great time to visit – not only is the weather generally more temperate, it’s hairy crab season, an autumn delicacy that has been drawing devotees for centuries.

What to do

Beat the sunrise to join savvy locals wandering around Aberdeen Fish Market, a wet market in the truest sense (we’d suggest wearing flip flops). Weave your way through towering stacks of crates packed with seasonal speciality hairy crabs towards a at-bottomed boat called Freddy Boy’s for a bowl of rice noodles. Go deep in Kowloon and check out Hong Kong elders playing Xiangqi (Chinese chess) under the banyan trees at the Tin Hau Temple, before listening to the caged birds sing at the Yuen Po Street Bird Garden. Shop until you drop – then ll your boots at PMQ, pmq.org.hk a stylish hipster spot converted from the former quarters of married policemen. In the middle of Soho, it’s a creative hub packed with designers and artists, boutiques and restaurants. Get a sense of the island with a vigorous hike down from The Peak, weaving your way through the surprisingly wild trail to Pokfulam Reservoir. Don’t miss the Hong Kong Museum of History for a lesson in the Opium Wars. hk.history.museum

Where to stay

From the glittering glass lobby to the far-reaching views over the harbour, and the world’s rst three-star Michelin Chinese restaurant, Lung King Heen, The Four Seasons Hotel Hong Kong 00 852 3196 8888, fourseasons.com has everything you could want from a luxurious lodging. Technology rules at The Upper House, 00 852 2918 1838, upperhouse.com a super-smart 117-room boutique hotel near delightful Hong Kong Park. Here, Asian-inspired accents of wood, stone and limestone create a contemporary yet calming atmosphere. Scan the Kowloon horizon until you clock Tsim Sha Tsui’s tall triangular building and you’ve got the spot – Hotel Panorama by Rhombus 00 852 3550 0388, hotelpanorama.com.hk. With its 324 rooms, starting at £90 for a double, and its proximity to the Airport Express, it ticks the smart business hotel box, but still has plenty of character.

Where to eat and drink

The two-star Michelin marvel Duddell’s 00 852 2525 9191, duddells.co welcomes a youthful crowd to try chef Siu Hin-Chi’s crispy roast suckling pig, superlative shrimp dumplings, addictive crispy salt-marinated chicken and – at this time of year – hairy crab noodles. Cantonese grandma cooking meets a smart dining room at Kin’s Kitchen 00 852 2571 0913, kinskitchen.com.hk where minced pork with squid and salted egg, and lion sh with lettuce shoots continue to be crowd-pleasers. Don’t be put off by the fact that Tim Ho Wan 00 852 2979 5608, timhowan.com is part of a chain of dim sum restaurants – the North Point branch has a Michelin star, and considering the quality of the baked barbecue pork buns, it’s no surprise. It’s not just Asian fare where Hong Kong shines. Under the guidance of culinary director Richard Ekkebus, chefs at The Landmark Mandarin Oriental’s Amber, 00 852 2132 0066, amberhongkong.com turn out two Michelin-starred cooking. Australian chef Shane Osborn walked away from his post at Michelin-starred London restaurant, Pied à Terre, to open Arcane 00 852 2728 0178, arcane.hk a casual eatery in a plush of face block in Central. The vegetable-led menu focuses on strong flavours and top quality ingredients, paired with impressive wines.

Time running out?

Carrie Poonki runs food tours of the vibrant Sham Shui Po neighbourhood. Explore the artist and designer- populated area, now famous for its street food – the rice noodle rolls from Hop Yik Tai are a sure bet. hongkongfoodietours.com

Map

Travel Information

Travel Information

Currency is the Hong Kong dollar. Time is eight hours ahead of GMT. Flight time is around 12 hours from London.

Getting There

Cathay Pacific has non-stop fl ights to Hong Kong from London Gatwick, Heathrow and Manchester airports. cathaypacific.com

Virgin Atlantic flies direct from London Heathrow to Hong Kong International Airport. virginatlantic.com

Resources

Discover Hong Kong is the official travel guide and has all the information you’ll need for your visit. discoverhongkong.com

Average daily temperatures and rainfall

JanFebMarAprMayJunJulAugSepOctNovDec
Min Temp141517202426272626231915
Max Temp191921252930313130282421
mm122666332111

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