Why go?

What to do

Île de Ré is a chic yet unspoiled Atlantic retreat, where whitewashed villages, windswept beaches and salt marshes set the scene for a more leisurely pace of life. A favourite of Parisians seeking understated luxury, it blends seafood bistros, artisan markets and cycling trails that wind past vineyards and oyster farms. Think of it as the French counterpart to Burnham Market in Norfolk – a refined yet relaxed coastal escape, where visitors swap city life for fresh sea air, excellent food and boutique shopping, all wrapped in laid-back charm.

Connected to the mainland by a 3km bridge, the island’s flat terrain is perfect for exploring by foot or bike. Ten picturesque villages are linked by 100km of scenic routes, passing oyster farms, old ports and charming cottages. The northern salt marshes, once key to the island’s economy, now sustain migrating birds in spring and autumn – a haven for avocets, egrets and terns. Stalls along the paths sell the island’s prized fleur de sel, harvested much as it was centuries ago. Boating and paddleboarding are also popular activities on Île de Ré. For a unique experience, try kayaking through the maze of little creeks around Loix – find guided options at ilederecanoe.com – with sandy stretches like Plage de la Conche among the best beaches on the Atlantic coast.

For those still itching to explore, the Phare des Baleines lighthouse on the island’s north-western tip rewards climbers (257 steps lead to the top) with panoramic ocean views, while the ruins of the Abbaye des Châteliers – once one of the largest abbeys in western France – offer a glimpse into the island’s medieval past.

Base yourself in Saint-Martin-de-Ré, the island’s vibrant heart, with its lively harbour lined with cafés and seafood restaurants. For quieter moments, head to the villages of Ars-en-Ré and Les Portes-en-Ré for windswept tranquillity. Located just 20 minutes’ drive from La Rochelle airport, the island teems with Parisians in high summer, but visit in May, June or September for quieter lanes and golden light. While cars aren’t banned, they’re best left behind – here, la bicyclette is the way to go.

Where to stay

Île de Ré’s accommodation scene mirrors the island’s effortless elegance – sophisticated yet with a strong sense of place. Among the finest examples of this approach are Hôtel de Toiras and La Villa Clarisse & Spa, both owned by Olivia Le Calvez, each offering a distinct take on luxury.

The intimate five-star retreat of Hôtel de Toiras, a converted 17th-century shipowner’s house on the harbour in Saint-Martin-de-Ré, has 18 rooms blending period design with modern comforts. Guests have access to the pool and spa at ‘little sister’ La Villa Clarisse, a short walk away: a discreet nine-room townhouse with butler service. Here, antique furniture and an exquisite art collection create a refined atmosphere, with wines from the owner’s Bordeaux vineyard, Château Clarisse, well worth sampling. hotel-de-toiras.com villa-clarisse.com

La Maison Douce, also in Saint-Martin-de-Ré, occupies a restored 19th-century townhouse with French country-style rooms featuring white linens, roll-top baths and private balconies. Breakfast is served in a rose-filled courtyard. lamaisondouce.com

In Ars-en-Ré, Hôtel Le Sénéchal is a cluster of historic buildings reimagined as a stylish, understated retreat. Rustic rooms, a heated dipping pool and a leafy courtyard create a sense of escape in one of France’s officially designated Most Beautiful Villages. For ultimate flexibility, the hotel also offers two self- catering lofts with kitchenettes. hotel-le-senechal.com

Le Richelieu, a long-standing five-star option in La Flotte, offers sea-view rooms and a Thalasso spa. The on-site restaurant serves seafood-centric fine dining. hotel-le-richelieu.com

Where to eat and drink

Local produce reflects the island’s unique terroir, shaped by sea air and sandy, chalky soils. The most famous crop is the Île de Ré potato, closely followed by its renowned sea salt, both of which have shaped the island’s culinary and agricultural identity over the years. Once grown in former vineyards that were devastated by phylloxera, these small, nutty potatoes gained AOP status in 1998.

Oyster farming thrives in the island’s shallow lagoons, producing briny, delicate varieties. The waters also yield excellent langoustines, mussels, clams and locally caught turbot and sole, often served grilled or with samphire and Île de Ré salt.

Vineyards here, although modest in scale, turn out distinctive wines. Standouts include Rosé des Dunes from the Voiles range, the subtly fruity white Ilrhéa, and the full-bodied Petit Sergent red. Join the locals in sipping chilled Pineau des Charentes, made using local cognac, as the perfect apéritif.

Dining options range from laid-back seafood shacks to refined restaurants. Gillardeau’s La Cabanajam, a short bike ride from Saint- Martin-de-Ré, serves oysters from nearby Île d’Oléron, each shell marked with a ‘G’ for provenance. Open daily, April to September. maisongillardeau.fr

For an upmarket setting, Hôtel de Toiras offers quayside dining at George’s. The menu by Mauritian chef Jeffrey NG Cheong Wong blends local ingredients with international influences. Signature dishes include lobster pasta and sole meunière. hotel-de-toiras.com

Also in Saint-Martin-de-Ré, La Maison showcases chef Anthony Martellière’s flair for harmonious yet inventive pairings. Standouts include perfectly seared scallops, their sweetness balanced by smoky grilled leeks, and a shallot tarte tatin, enriched with velvety foie gras and the tangy pop of pear balls. restaurant-lamaison.com

For a relaxed meal, Le Serghi on the quay serves fresh, no-fuss seafood, dictated by the day’s catch, allowing the ingredients to shine in dishes such as grilled sea bass and moules marinières. Don’t miss their desserts, including a rich Grand Marnier soufflé and a decadent Valrhona chocolate tart. leserghi.com

Ars-en-Ré hosts a daily market from April to October, offering everything from just-caught seafood to wine. La Flotte’s year-round market, set in medieval-style arcades, is particularly atmospheric. Stop by nearby Crème for a great range of local and mainland cheeses.

Le Jardin de Lydie in Le Bois-Plage-en-Ré is the place for homemade jams, from apricot to fig and bay leaf. lejardindelydie.com

No visit is complete without a trip to one of La Martinière’s six shops for its renowned artisanal ice creams and macarons. Classic flavours are covered as well as inventive seaweed-infused varieties. la-martiniere.fr

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