Why go?

Swerve the package holidaymakers in tequila-fuelled Cancún and head north to the remote and stunning fishing island of Holbox. You’ll find a verdant landscape with sand-paved roads on which you can wander barefoot in May’s 32C highs. The slow pace of life (thanks to no cars or big corporations) makes for a welcome retreat. Plenty of wildlife and sporting activities mean there’s always something to do, while the bright primary colours of the town’s murals, tropical birds and azure waters are Mexico at its best.

What to do

Dozens of hammocks are strung along 40km of beaches, and you could easily spend a week in one, soaking up rays with a cocktail in hand, but you’d be selling yourself short. The kiteboards come out in the afternoons and Holbox Kiteboarding holboxkiteboarding.com is where to go to rent one. Book a series of group lessons and you’ll be riding your first waves confidently within two sessions. Wildlife is a huge draw. From April to October about 40,000 flamingos crowd the shallow lagoon that separates Isla Holbox from the mainland. Watch them feast on the little red crabs that give the birds their distinctive colour. Nearby, on Isla Pajaros, are hundreds of other bird species including snowy egrets, wood storks and white pelicans. Sunset is a spectacle as they wing their way back to land to roost. Many locals make their living fishing, so board fly-fishing trips via En-Holbox enholbox.com.mx to catch your lunch. Large tarpon arrive in May and can exceed 45kg, and you’ll also snag jack crevalle, snapper and bonefish. The whale shark season starts this month too, giving you a rare chance to swim with these gentle giants. Book a tour with Holbox Travel holboxtravel.com to safely glide past the largest fish in the ocean, before spotting dolphins, turtles and manta rays up close.

Where to stay

Locals have fought hard to keep powerful property developers and high-rise resorts out, so expect many boutique options with bright decorations and expansive pools. Casa Sandra 00 52 333 333 6116, casasandra.com offers an artistic experience with works created by owner Sandra Pérez and other Cuban artists dotted throughout. For bohemian luxury, stay at Casa Las Tortugas 00 52 984 875 2129, holboxcasalastortugas.com where striking multihued walls surround wooden antiquities and artisanal furniture. Its spa offers orange and honey body scrubs and papaya facials, and the beachfront yoga pavilion has daily classes. Las Nubes 00 52 984 875 2300, lasnubesdeholbox.com boasts extra seclusion due to its private beach. Climb upstairs to find a bar with panoramic views of the Caribbean or hire bikes and kayaks to explore further.

Where to eat and drink

The fishmongers don’t have to go far to net their supplies as sea bass, red snapper, crab, octopus and lobsters are in abundance. So it’s no surprise that seafood features heavily on menus. Breakfast at Mamá Rana 00 52 984 875 2114, where owner Elbert recounts legends of missing Spanish ships and pirates pillaging treasures while you feast on house speciality chayitas (corn tortillas piled with fried chaya leaves, tomato sauce and boiled eggs). For sashimi made with snapper and shrimp that is fresh off the boat, El Sushi de Holbox 00 52 984 132 9507 is your destination. The fusion of Peruvian recipes with Mexican ingredients and Japanese techniques works flawlessly, and goes down perfectly with ginger-laced margaritas. Ceviche is popular, so seek out the best at Viva Zapata 00 52 984 875 2362, which also hosts live music nights featuring local artists. Order garlic shrimps cooked over charcoal or hearty shellfish pasta dishes. You’ll need to try at least one slice from Edelyn in Plaza Principal, which brought pizza to the island and took the excellent decision of topping it off with lashings of lobster. Mandarina 00 52 984 875 2129, with its lounging sofas, Mediterranean mixed with Caribbean menu and sea views from beachfront tables, was made for lazy afternoons.

Time running out?

Take a refreshing dip in the natural spring waters of Yalahao Lagoon – rumoured to be a fountain of youth.

Travel Information

Travel Information

Currency is the Mexican peso. Time is 6 hours behind the UK. Flight time from London to Cancún is 9.5 hours, then a 3-hour transfer. The cost to carbon-offset is £16.99, visit climatecare.org

Getting There

Virgin Atlantic flies daily from London Gatwick to Cancún. Private transfers to Isla Holbox can be arranged by van or plane. virginatlantic.com

Resources

El Caribe Mexicano provides practical information for your visit and a brief history of the island.