Why go?

On the opposite bank from the postcard-perfect minarets of Fener and Balat, the northern shore of the Golden Horn is stirring from a centuries-long slumber. Once dominated by the Tersane-i Amire – the imperial shipyard founded by Sultan Mehmed the Conqueror in 1454 – this stretch from Kasimpaşa to Sütlüce was for generations a place of industry, meatpacking plants and dockyards. Now, nearly 600 years on, it’s at the heart of Istanbul’s most ambitious regeneration: Tersane Istanbul, a brand-new 242,000sq m cultural and lifestyle district.

The timing couldn’t be better. The Istanbul Biennial will spill across the city’s galleries and waterfronts this autumn, with new venues such as the vast IBB Tersane Exhibition Hall joining the creative map. The onceinaccessible shipyard walls have given way to promenades lined with five-star hotels, museums, flagship boutiques and a dining scene that fuses global talent with local flavour.

The retail mix is equally headline-worthy: nearly 100 stores are opening their doors in the first phase, from luxury fashion house Beymen to athleisure heavyweights Alo Yoga, Lululemon and Nike, alongside Turkish lifestyle brand Vakkorama.

Beyond the Tersane gates, the neighbourhood is a tapestry of oldand new. The Rahmi Koç Museum and Miniatürk theme park make for family-friendly stops; in Eyüpsultan, rowing clubs glide past Ottoman mosques; in Sütlüce, sakatatçi (offal eateries) preserve a meat-loving heritage. You can stroll from the Galata Tower, through Karaköy’s design shops, and along the water’s edge all the way to Santralistanbul art complex, a converted power station.

In October the air along the Golden Horn is crisp, the light golden and the ferries less crowded – in other words, the perfect time for exploring this new culinary frontier by boat, on foot, or simply hopping between its most enticing tables while enjoying the art installations spilling into the streets.

What to do

Where to stay

Design-savvy travellers looking for a focus on dining, wellness and culture, should head for Aliée Istanbul, the flagship of Paris Society’s hotel collection. It offers 122 individually designed rooms across four historic buildings, from a converted Turkish bath villa to loft-style suites. Gastronomy is central here, with six dining concepts, including Taste by Thomas Bühner (see Where to eat and drink), a lagoon-style pool and an incredible spa. Interiors by Los Angeles’ Powerstrip Studio blend historic stonework with cinematic lighting and plush textures. alieeistanbul.com

Nautical-inspired interiors meet resort-scale amenities at Rixos Tersane Istanbul, with direct access to Tersane’s museums, restaurants and promenade. Its flagship restaurant Josephine serves international fare overlooking the Golden Horn and is named after an eponymous vertigo inducing boat hanging from its vaulted atrium. The outdoor pool sits beside historic cranes that date back to its days as a dockyard. rixos.com

If you prefer to stay in the heart of Karaköy, The Bank Hotel Istanbul is a late-19th century former bank building that blends neoclassical grandeur with contemporary art-led interiors. High ceilings, marble bathrooms and artworks make rooms feel indulgent and personal. Its rooftop restaurant frames one of the best views over the Old City, while the location means you can stroll to Tersane in 15 minutes. thebankhotelistanbul.com

For a more local experience, consider renting one of the area’s lovingly restored flats or lofts. Many are set in 19th century stone warehouses or Ottoman-era townhouses, often with exposed brick, tall sash windows and sweeping Golden Horn views. They’re ideal if you want the flexibility of self-catering and a front-row seat to the district’s transformation. airbnb.com vrbo.com

Where to eat and drink

Istanbul’s first restaurant helmed by a three-Michelin-starred chef, Taste by Thomas Bühner is set inside the Aliée Hotel Istanbul. Here the emphasis is on seasonal Turkish ingredients reinterpreted through precise, international techniques. The open kitchen encourages dialogue between chefs and guests, while the multicourse tasting menu changes frequently – one visit might feature a delicate seafood course withAsian touches, the next a richly layered meat dish. On select days, Thomas personally hosts a chef’s table, making for one of the city’smost intimate fine-dining experiences. alieeistanbul.com

Across the Horn in Balat, chef Devran Karaalp serves modern Turkish plates at Evelik, where street food is given a refined twist.Their kumpir (a baked potato, its skin crackling and insides smokysweet) arrives crowned with kokoreç, chopped spiced lamb intestines. This is no chopped liver – it’s the city’s late-night classic transformed into fine dining. +90 532 469 0664

If you’re after a relaxed waterside meyhane (tavern) with unbeatable sunset views, Balat Sahil is an Istanbul classic. The cold meze tray – marinated sea bass, broad bean purée, roasted peppers – is the perfect start before grilled octopus or bluefish. Here, mezes arrive on old fashioned platters, encouraging a leisurely pace as the masts in the harbour sway in the background. +90 212 525 6185

Cibalikapi Balikçisi is a family run fish restaurant near Cibali, famous for its terrace tables almost overhanging the water. Expect a convivial atmosphere, tables packed with multigenerational groups, and a kitchen that lets its catch shine. +90 532 163 5520

Or head to Sütlüce, the area around the new congress centre. It used to be an abattoir and here offal is still king. Try slow-braised tripe soup, crispy kokoreç or grilled liver skewers at no-frills counters. It’s all hearty, deeply local fare, best washed down with an ayran (a pleasantly salty blend of water and yoghurt).

IBB Tersane Sergi & Beltur Café, the municipality-run café inside the Tersane complex, is a handy stop between gallery visits. Order a Turkish tea and simit (sesame-covered Turkish bagel), then sit back and watch the ferries pass under the Galata Bridge – the café doubles as one of the best value Golden Horn views. Find it beside the pier.

For 2026 visits, Paris Society concept restaurant Gigi will be offering something a little different – channelling its trademark French Riviera style while serving Italian cuisine in an industrial-chic setting softened with greenery. paris-society.com

The first Istanbul outpost of Antalya’s legendary 7 Mehmet is opening its door here too, offering a refined take on Turkish and Mediterranean classics, with seasonal vegetables, quality meats and local seafood. Expect simple yet well delivered plates, with recipes that have been perfected over decades. 7mehmet.com

Part dinner, part spectacle, Mondaine de Pariso in Aliée Istanbul (see Where to stay) is already proving popular, bringing a touch of the bohemian glamour of belle époque Paris to the scene, with velvet curtains, candlelight and a live-show programme. The menu features indulgences such asking crab with avocado salad, rigatoni with truffles, turbot fillet in sage beurre blanc, and beef carpaccio with truffle and parmesan cream. Expect between-courses cabaret,music and a humidor well stocked with post-dessert cigars. alieeistanbul.com

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