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Kiev

Make a pilgrimage to the golden Ukrainian capital, where street art sits comfortably alongside baroque splendour and the chicken Kiev reigns supreme, says Nick Boulos

Travel Time 3hrs 10min

Why go?

One of Europe’s oldest cities – located in the centre of Ukraine and sliced by the Dnieper river – Kiev was, according to legend, founded by three Slavic brothers in the third century. Today, it is a thriving metropolis of onion-shaped domes, lively neighbourhoods such as Podil and history by the bucket-load. As the country bounces back from political uncertainty, its mighty capital is again welcoming visitors with trademark Ukrainian warmth. There’s no better time to visit than the balmy days of early summer, when the banks of the river spring to life with alfresco bars and the many green spaces come into their own.

What to do

Kiev has a number of religious sites that are nothing short of heavenly. Start with the sparkling golden cupolas of St Michael’s Monastery, then walk to St Sophia’s Cathedral. An impressive example of Ukrainian baroque design, it was built in the 11th century and has original mosaics intact. Spend some time at Independence Square, the city’s central point that has witnessed revolutions over the years. Take in the eclectic architecture – from neoclassical to Stalinist – and admire the statue of Slavic goddess Berehynia that perches atop a 92m column. Elsewhere, you’ll find Ukraine’s creative side at ArtEast Reitarska Street 8, an independent gallery that showcases thought-provoking local work. Following the recent revolution, large-scale street-art murals have sprung up around the city, created by an influx of edgy artists from all over Europe. Discover their urban masterpieces for yourself on a two-hour walking tour kievwalkingtours.com.ua led by a local artist. Stretch your legs even further in some of the city’s serene open spaces. One of the loveliest is Mariinsky Park, on the banks of the river and backed by the parliament building. It’s an emerald jewel fit for a queen, so it will come as no surprise that it was founded on the order of Empress Elizabeth in the 18th century.

Where to stay

The boutique hotel has finally arrived in Kiev. Close to the Opera House, 11 Mirrors 11mirrorshotel.com is a chic property with 49 rooms and suites featuring stone walls, black and silver motifs and tree stumps for bedside tables. Alternatively, book one of the 32 luxurious rooms at Vozdvyzhensky vozdhotel.com a stone’s throw from Andryivskyi Uzviz, one of Kiev’s prettiest streets. If you want to be in the thick of the action, opt for the five-star Hyatt Regency kiev.regency.hyatt.com located between St Michael’s and St Sophia’s. The Podol Plaza Hotel podolplazahotel.com.ua meanwhile, is delightfully old fashioned, with a large terrace restaurant in which to enjoy the sunshine.

Where to eat and drink

Kick-start your day at Koza Dereza kozadereza.kiev.ua a cosy café famed for its breakfasts, and whose produce comes straight from local farms. Sample authentic Ukrainian fare at Pervak pervak.kiev.ua a folk restaurant that serves up hearty dishes such as spinach and mushroom dumplings, buckwheat porridge and baked apple. More upscale is Kanapa borysov.com.ua which is housed in a 19th-century wooden building. The menu comprises pre-revolutionary recipes reimagined in a contemporary way and served alongside a Ukrainian wine list. Of course, no trip to Kiev would be complete without sampling its most famous culinary creation. While there’s some uncertainty as to where the chicken Kiev actually came from, the city has claimed it as its own. Try it at Chicken Kyiv borysov.com.ua a restaurant that serves it with interesting twists including cauliflower purée. It also has an atmospheric bar with stone chimneys, green velvet drapes and cocktails designed by master mixologist Alex Kratena. Our pick is the Red Haven, a heady mix of gin, bitters and pomegranate liqueur.

Time running out?

Head to the outskirts of town to the Monastery of the Caves. Its eerie collection of underground passageways and chambers containing mummified monks that remains an important place of pilgrimage for Orthodox Christians. kplavra.kiev.ua

Map

Travel Information

Travel Information

Currency is the hryvnia (UAH). Time is 2 hours ahead of GMT. Flight time from the UK is around 3 hours. The cost to offset your carbon emissions is £5.31. For more details visit climatecare.org

Getting There

British Airways has regular direct services from London Heathrow to Kiev Boryspil International airport. ba.com

Ukraine International Airlines also offers daily flights from London Gatwick to Kiev. flyuia.com

Resources

Visit Kiev is the official tourist board website, which offers lots of ideas to help you make the most of your visit. visitkievukraine.com

Average daily temperatures and rainfall

JanFebMarAprMayJunJulAugSepOctNovDec
Min Temp-9-8-32812131282-2-5
Max Temp-2-131220222323181130
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