Why go?

This modern Asian city mixes the most contemporary of vibes with traditional Malaysia – walk through Chinatown and you might spot a chicken-seller on the phone to his stockbroker, while bankers still employ feng shui in their global deal making. The capital is at the heart of the country’s business, politics, arts, fashion and food trends, with elegant colonial mansions dotted between the skyscrapers and an eclectic and numerous collection of markets, restaurants and bars.

What to do

Begin your sightseeing tour at the Petronas Twin Towers (petronastwintowers.com.my); at 452m high they’re two of the tallest residential towers in the world. You can walk across the Skybridge between them, but get there early (around 8. 30am), as there are a set number of free tickets every day. The city’s oldest surviving mosque is at the heart of the city; located at the kuala lumpur – or muddy confluence of the two rivers Gombak and Klang. The Lake Gardens have been around since 1888, a colonial park full of shady walkways, orchid gardens and a boating lake. For something typically Malaysian, head to the art deco Central Market at the junction of Jalan Benteng and Lebuh Pasar Besar, which has the best handicrafts in the country. There are regular art exhibitions and outdoor theatre performances here too. To the east of the city is Chinatown. Here you’ll find a plethora of exotic oddities, from apothecaries selling herbal medicines in porcelain pots to goldsmiths, basket makers, pet shops and haberdashers. Meanwhile in Petaling Street Market, traders sell a cornucopia of knock-off designer clothes. The rainforest is close at hand at the Forest Research Institute Malaysia (frim.gov.my), a short journey out of town along the Selayang-Kepong highway. It gives a real sense of the jungle – there’s even a vertiginous canopy walk 30m above the forest floor. Well-heeled Malaysians love a spa – you too can have doctor fish nibble the dead skin off your feet or simply go for a traditional pampering massage at Vila Manja Spa in the centre of town (vilamanja.com).

Where to stay

The Smile Hotel on Jalan Chow Kit has modern rooms and free WiFi (00 60 3 4044 8800, smileboutiquehotel.com). The chic Piccolo Hotel (00 60 3 2303 8000, thepiccolohotel.com) has sleek rooms with big beds and soft lighting, and is decorated with huge pieces of art.

Where to eat and drink

Nothing suggests the luxurious colonial lifestyle like afternoon tea – enjoy finger sandwiches, fine Darjeeling and scones at Carcosa Seri Negara (00 60 3-2295 0888), where you’ll be transported back to the elegance of the 1800s. The classic Malay cooking at the Gulai House, the hotel’s restaurant, includes satay, otak-otak, beef rendang and other fish and seafood dishes. For dessert, try honeyed jackfruit with coconut cream. After a hard day’s sightseeing or shopping, find yourself a hawker stall, pull up a plastic chair and get stuck in. Jalan Alor (close to the famous clubbing strip, Changkat Bukit Bintang) is popular with fans of freshly barbecued satay and Chinese food with a Malaysian twist. There’s also dim sum and all sorts of noodles and pork-based snacks such as bak kut teh, a pork rib soup. The street stalls in Jalan Petaling serve bowls of steamed dumplings, fish ball noodles, duck or roast chicken, and during the day, Jalan Masjid, the heart of Little India, is lined with stalls selling cincau, or grass jelly drink, biryani, roti and an assortment of curries. For a relaxed evening, head to Bangsar, two roads of restaurants and bars; look out for Asian Heritage Row (00 60 3-2694 1318) on Jalan Doraisamy, by the Hotel Imperial, a place to see and be seen at night. Bon Ton Restaurant (00 60 3-2142 2287) in a restored colonial bungalow serves lovely chicken kapitan and mango kerabu.

Time running out?

The Jadi Batek factory (jadibatek.com), makes and sells batik, a traditional Malaysian decorative art – perfect for picking up some souvenirs to take home.

Travel Information

Travel Information

Currency is the Malaysian ringgit. Kuala Lumpur is eight hours ahead of GMT and a 13-hour flight from London.

Getting There

Malaysia Airlines (malaysiaairlines.com) The national carrier flies regularly to Kuala Lumpur from London Heathrow.
Emirates (emirates.com) flies regularly to Kuala Lumpur from London Heathrow.

Resources

Tourism Malaysia (tourism.gov.my) is a helpful resource, with details on Kuala Lumpur and other destinations.