Why go?

Far more than its moniker ‘The Knightsbridge of the North’, this energetic city has a strong identity of its own. Leading the way is its thriving gourmet scene, and a boom in urban development – including the recently opened First Direct Arena and upcoming Victoria Gate shopping centre. Through its evolution, a rich heritage has remained, with a network of historical markets, grand arcades and Victorian facades offering a touch of old alongside the new in this entirely stroll-able city.

What to do

The surprisingly compact city centre on the River Aire makes cramming in plenty of activities a breeze. There’s a vibrant cultural landscape, so start with a session along The Headrow. Just a ten-minute walk from the railway station, this street allows you to hop easily from the fine collection of 19th- and 20th-century British artists at Leeds Art Gallery, 0113 247 8256, leeds.gov.uk, to the Henry Moore Institute, 0113 246 7467, henrymoore.org/hmi, for a glimpse of his undulating figures (Moore was an alumni of Leeds College of Art). For architectural grandeur, the nearby town hall, City Museum and cathedral are worthy stopping-off points. From The Headrow, the main shopping artery of Briggate leads directly to the Grade-II-listed Victoria Quarter anchored by Harvey Nichols, 0113 245 5333, vq.co.uk, and home to high street boutiques. Be sure to head across to Kirkgate Market to grab some boczek (bacon) at the Polish deli before choosing your spices to take home at the Asian bazaar. Spreading between Briggate and Albion Street and covered by a gigantic glass dome is the Trinity Centre, 0113 394 2415, trinityleeds.com, whose 15m-tall equine sculpture presides over 120 shops, restaurants and bars. Follow Briggate all the way down to Bridge End and cross the Aire to The Tetley, 0113 320 2323, thetetley.org, a brewery turned gallery and pre-supper drinking spot with a retro vibe.

Where to stay

Try one of the 44 rooms at history-rich Quebecs, 0113 244 8989, quebecshotel.co.uk, right by the station. For a great city view, Double Tree by Hilton, 0113 241 1000, /doubletree3.hilton.com is nearby in Granary Wharf. On Swinegate, the stylish Malmaison, 0844 693 0654, malmaison.com, is a choice pad for shopping. Overlooking the Aire, 42 The Calls, 0113 244 0099, 42thecalls.co.uk, is housed in an old corn mill: interiors are all industrial girders, oak beams and exposed bricks.

Where to eat and drink

Indulge in a sweet breakfast of seaside doughnuts at Angelica, 0113 897 0099, angelica-restaurant.com, to set you up for the day. A coffee stop at La Bottega Milanese on Bond Court, 0113 245 4242, labottegamilanese.co.uk, is also a must. It’s not easy to find, but this cool corner café with quirky interiors is worth the hunt. Lunch at Filmore & Union, 0113 244 1518, filmoreandunion.com, in the Victoria Quarter is a soul-warming affair; its authentic tagine changes on a daily basis. When it comes to supper, Trinity Kitchen offers a range of street food-style bites from independent vendors, as does the cool Belgrave Music Hall, 0113 234 6160, belgravemusichall.com, while Bundobust, www.bundobust.com, is the place for vegetarian Indian sharing bowls. Order extra chilli ‘popcorn and pops’, and mull over the list of over 50 craft beers. Sourcing ingredients within 60 miles (97km), Crafthouse, 0113 897 0444, crafthouserestaurant.com, has a solid British menu – a seat at the marble bar offers the best view in this copper-pan adorned dining room. Meat lovers unite at Rare, 0113 246 7013, where taxidermy-stuffed windows welcome diners and Tamworth pig belly is ordered by the kilo. Sous le Nez, 0113 244 0108, souslenez.com, is owned by a gourmet traveller in his own right and offers a French-inspired menu. For drinks, buzzing Call Lane racks up indie bars aplenty.

Time running out?

Stop off at Laynes en route to the station for flat whites made with beans from carefully selected roasters in Berlin and Stockholm. laynesespresso.co.uk

Travel Information

Travel Information

Getting There

East Coast Trains leave from London King’s Cross every half hour and take just over two hours. eastcoast.co.uk

National Express coaches run to Leeds on a daily basis from across the breadth of the country. nationalexpress.com

Leeds Bradford International Airport is 13km north of the city with direct flights from 13 UK destinations and 64 international destinations. leedsbradfordairport.co.uk

Resources

Visit Leeds is the go-to source for the lowdown on planning your trip, including where to stay, what’s on across the city and tips for booking the best table in town. visitleeds.co.uk