Why go?

Limoges is famous worldwide for its fine porcelain, a tradition that is celebrated throughout the city and kept alive by its modern-day artisans. The city dates back to the Roman emperor Augustus, and its central squares and streets are steeped in history, with cobbled courtyards, magnificent churches and timber- framed houses. Strike out into the countryside to find rolling fields, passionate producers and scenic views along the river Vienne.

What to do

Start with Limoges’s largest and smallest churches. In the magnificent gothic Cathédrale Saint-Étienne, headless statues were among the victims of the French Revolution. Along the rue de la Boucherie, the tiny 15th-century Chapelle Saint-Aurélien is dedicated to the patron saint of butchers, reflecting the historic importance of meat in the city. Walk over to the Maison de la Boucherie museum to discover the narrow, timber-framed home of some of the families that slaughtered, sold and cooked meat here, limogestourisme.com, July-September only. The Museum of Fine Arts, museebal.fr, features Egyptian antiquities and fine enamels, along with early works by Renoir, who was born in Limoges. The Adrien Dubouché National Museum, museeadriendubouche.fr, celebrates Limoges’s history producing fine porcelain, which came to prominence in the 18th century. Afterwards, pick up some new pieces of your own at the many shops in the city or head for Royal Limoges, the oldest factory, royallimoges.fr. Keeping alive a centuries’ old tradition producing liqueurs and aperitifs, Limousin chestnuts and other local flavours are imbued with alcohol at La Distillerie du Centre, distillerieducentre.fr, tours by appointment. A short drive away in Séreilhac is Corinne Bouissou’s vast and glorious saffron garden. Tour the estate and taste delicious homemade saffron-flavoured honey, jam, biscuits and syrup, contact through safranenlimousin.fr to book a tour.

Where to stay

There are plenty of passable beds: Best Western, Ibis, Merceure et al in the city centre, but for real character step just outside. Domaine de Faugeras, is a 1742 chateau with the accompanying stately charm. Rooms are huge, with modern amenities and one of the best restaurants in town. A short drive from the city in the hamlet of Feytiat, is the 12th-century priory le Puy Marot, with scenic views and home-cooked evening meals, gitesdefrancecharme.com. Once the residence of a 19th-century porcelain maker, La Chapelle Saint Martin, chapellesaintmartin.com, is the region’s most upmarket hotel, with an outdoor pool, several elegant rooms and suites and a 35-hectare walled park. A meal in the intimate dining room is a real gourmet experience – save room for the immense cheeseboard.

Where to eat and drink

Thirsty travellers should head for Brasserie Michard, bieres-michard.com, in the city centre or to its nearby brewery for a choice of local blonde, brown and other refreshing brews. Beef from Limousin cattle is renowned for its delicate texture and full flavour. Try it in situ at the farmhouse restaurant Ferme de la Chassagne, which produces veal, beef, charcuterie and other dishes made from regional ingredients. Also within striking distance of the city, Les Tables du Bistrot, serves steaks and Périgord duck in a delightful country setting. Weather permitting, dine alfresco on the terrace at restaurant Le Cheverny, where a changing set menu features contemporary fish, chicken and meat dishes along with show-stopping desserts. Taking fresh ingredients from Limoges’s porcelain-clad 19th-century central market, the cosy brasserie Chez Alphonse, pairs tripe, veal, garlic sausage and fish with comfort foods such as creamy mash – getting the nod of approval from locals and visiting Michelin inspectors for its ‘authentic, quality and generous’ fare.

Time running out?

Head out into the countryside and visit the ruins of the medieval Châlucet fortress, hautevienne.fr/chalucet

Travel Information

Travel Information

Currency is the euro. Time difference is one hour ahead of GMT. Flight times are approximately 1.5 hours from UK airports.

Getting There

Ryanair has direct flights to Limoges from London Stanstead, Liverpool and Bristol. ryanair.com

FlyBe has flights from Southampton and Leeds Bradford. Or stop off by car en route to the Dordogne. flybe.com

Resources

The Limoges tourist guide, limogestourisme.com, and Limousin regional guide, tourismelimousin.com, list hotels, restaurants, museums and forthcoming events.