Why go?

Industrial, drab, bland – whatever people used to say about Austria’s third largest city certainly doesn’t apply now. Named European Capital of Culture 2009, Linz has reinvented itself as a city of the future – albeit one that still keeps a foot in the past. Once home to Anton Bruckner and Mozart, their musical legacy lives on here. Baroque splendour is joined by cutting-edge architecture, interactive modern art and science museums, and plenty of leafy green space. Visit in summer for the many outdoor music, film and literature festivals.

What to do

Linz’s Hauptplatz is an enormous market square in the Altstadt – wander through it, weaving in and out of the arcades housing boutique shops, cafés and restaurants. The Baroque architecture, in candy floss hues of creamy yellow and soft pink, is complemented by the mint green of the Old Cathedral. Then, head west to the Schloss Museum (landesmuseum.at). A former castle by the Danube, it houses a collection ranging from fine art to archeology. Nearby 8th-century Martinskirche is the oldest church in Austria; you can visit accompanied by a registered guide. Back in the cobbled old town, spot the former homes of Mozart, Bruckner and scientist Johannes Kepler and then follow the Landstrasse, the main shopping street, south. Until October, Offenes Kulturhaus (okcentrum.at) is showing an exhibit that allows visitors to cross a series of temporary walkways constructed over the rooftops of Linz buildings – including one through the bell tower of the former Ursuline monastery. The Botanischer Garten is Linz’s answer to Kew, boasting greenhouses full of exotic plants and butterflies. On the banks of the Danube, discover the city’s contemporary side – the Lentos Kunstmuseum (lentos.at) houses a collection of modern art, while at the interactive science museum Ars Electronica Center (aec.at) you can participate in exhibits, such as controlling a computer with your thoughts or cloning a plant. Hop on the tram up to Pöstlingberg, a hill overlooking the city, to watch the sun set, then return for a classical concert at Brucknerhaus (brucknerhaus.at).

Where to stay

Get a taste of Linz’s modern art scene without leaving your room – Hotel and Loft Landgraf (00 43 732 700 712 400, hotellandgraf.com) boasts open-plan, apartment-style rooms with bright colours and sleek furnishings. The staff are cheery, too. Next door to the New Cathedral, Hotel am Domplatz (00 43 732 773 000, hotelamdomplatz.at) has a spa and fitness area.

Where to eat and drink

Bakeries are everywhere in Linz; around each corner you’ll find one selling the famous Linzer Torte, a lattice cake of nuts and redcurrant jam, made to a 315-year old recipe. Kund K (00 43 732 41 10, kukhofbaeckerei.at) is a cosy old bakery in which to try it; Brandl (00 43 732 773 6352, baeckerei-brandl.at) is a modern spot, as is Gragger (00 43 732 790 132, gragger.at), which also does great Linzer biscuits. The Torte crown, however, belongs to Jindrak (00 43 732 779 258, jindrak.at), open since 1929 on Herrenstrasse – pop in for a slice, or take a cake to go. If you’ve scaled Pöstlingberg, reward yourself with a cold glass of most, a frizzante cider, and soak up the views from the terrace at Pöstlingberg-Schlössl (00 43 732 716 633, poestlingbergschloessl.at). A grand old dame, its decor is frozen in time but the menu features seasonal dishes. Restaurant Verdi (00 43 70 733 005, verdi.at), perched on an equally idyllic hilltop a short drive from the centre, is the city’s best – sip on grüner veltliner and enjoy modern regional and European classics like the Wiener schnitzel. Fusion is the theme at Herberstein (00 43 732 786 161, herbersteinlinz.at); expect tuna and tapioca to appear, as well as venison. For local cuisine, hit Promenadenhof (00 43 732 777 661, promenadenhof.at); Cubus (00 43 732 944 149, cubus.at), in the Ars Electronica Center, overlooks the Danube and has a long drinks list.

Time running out?

At night Lentos and Ars Electronica Center glow
with coloured lights – from 9-10pm at the latter you can control the hues yourself, and play your own music for the city to hear.

Travel Information

Travel Information

Currency is the euro. Linz is one hour ahead of GMT and is a two-hour flight from London.

Getting There

Ryanair (ryanair.com) has direct flights from London Stansted.
Austrian Airlines (austrian.com) flies from London Heathrow to Vienna, from where you can take a train to Linz; journey time is around one and a half hours.

Resources

Linz Tourismus (linztourismus.at) provides detailed information and offers city tours from their office in the Hauptstrasse.
Austrian Tourist Office (austria.info) offers country-wide advice.