Why go?

Some of Europe’s best restaurants, goose bump-inducing architecture and fiercely modern boutiques are set against the backdrop of numerous churches, rosary bead sellers and the city’s rampant Catholicism. Spend afternoons dodging wooden trams and getting lost in medieval lanes, then evenings with an ice-cold vinho verde. May sees the start of the bullfighting season, which – though unpalatable for many – is part of Lisbon’s pumping, passionate cultural heart.

What to do

The most authentic (albeit not the most comfortable) way to tick off the sights is by climbing aboard wooden tram number 28. Starting from the Bairro Alto, it rattles along handsome streets and winds its way up through shopping districts where the likes of Louis Vuitton and Chanel hold sway; before rumbling along the cobbles of Alfama where the cathedral can be found. An omnipresent figure is ninth-century Castelo de São Jorge, whose burnt-orange facade looms over the city. It’s visible from nearly every street, and the views from up here don’t get much better. In its shadow, the city’s bustling main thoroughfare is Rua Da Prata – follow it round to the right as you reach the coast for the leatherware shops for which Portugal is famed.

Where to stay

A great-value base for those not afraid of a light yomp, Hotel Zenit, 00 351 21 310 2200, lisboa.zenithoteles.com, is 15 minutes on foot into town, has modern rooms and serves up a quality breakfast. Newcomer Memmo Alfama, 00 351 21 049 5660, is the first boutique option in Lisbon’s atmospheric old town next to the cathedral, and comes packed with designer touches. For a bit of classic opulence, you could go for Bairro Alto Hotel, 00 351 21 340 8288, bairroaltohotel.com, with its wood-panelling and good choice of rooms. Casa Amora, 00 351 91 930 0317, casaamora.com, may have only ten rooms but its reputation belies its size. Stucco ceilings, artworks and private terraces pepper the accommodations, and each pays tribute to a different Portuguese figure from the arts.

Where to eat and drink

This city is all about the nightlife, be it eating, drinking or dancing. As restaurants go, you’re spoilt for choice. Take lunch at Bonjardim, 00 351 21 342 4389, just around the corner from Praça do Comércio. It serves the best peri-peri chicken you’ll find; unpretentious and keenly priced. It comes with a signature spicy dipping oil (offer a reasonable tip and they’ll give you a bottle to take home). From the city centre, follow the natural slope down towards the coast and drop into one of the bars on the periphery that offer bottles of ice-cold vinho verde for about £5, including views out across the Atlantic. It’s a delicious, almost tart wine produced only in Portugal, with a slight effervesce that once saw its reputation maligned across Europe. For dinner, head to seafood paradise Ramiro, 00 351 21 885 1024, cervejariaramiro.pt, select any shellfish from the surrounding tanks and you’ll get it back cooked in garlicky butter, to be mopped up with still-warm bread or chips. On another night, try the upmarket largo, 00 351 21 347 7225, largo.pt, leading the way with modern Portuguese cooking. The cod marinated in port and soy is a stunning sweet and umami take on Nobu’s classic black cod. Punctuate any walk home with a stop at one of the myriad cherry brandy vendors, selling their wares for a euro a throw at teeny wood-panelled kiosks. Finish up (or start) your evening at the bars of Bairro Alto. Any one of which could see you through to the early hours with the lively lisbonites, should the spirit (or spirits) move you.

Time running out?

After lunch – but well before dinner – be sure to try the famous pastel de nata (custard tart). Few do it better than Pastéis de Belém, 00 351 21 363 7423, pasteisdebelem.pt, a renowned café and bakery.

Travel Information

Travel Information

Currency is the euro. There is no time difference with the UK. Flight time is 2. 5 hours from London. Cost to carbon offset for this trip is £2. 64, visit climatecare.org

Getting There

TAP is Portugal’s flag carrier and flies direct from London Gatwick and London Heathrow to Lisbon daily. flytap.com

EasyJet also flies direct from London to Lisbon. easyjet.co.uk

Resources

Turismo de Lisboa features itineraries, top tour operators and a handy calendar of events. visitlisboa.com