Liverpool - England
This Merseyside city is not just for football fans or Beatlemaniacs; it also offers beautiful architecture and a burgeoning restaurant scene, writes Emma Baker.
Travel Time 2hrs 20minThis Merseyside city is not just for football fans or Beatlemaniacs; it also offers beautiful architecture and a burgeoning restaurant scene, writes Emma Baker.
Travel Time 2hrs 20minMore than just a mecca for Macca and football fans, Liverpool is flourishing: the city has undergone a remarkable regeneration over the past two decades, with new buildings springing up all over and old ones being sensitively restored. Named the European Capital of Culture in 2008, this city has thrown off its industrial past to become an exciting destination with a Unesco-listed waterfront, great restaurants and more museums and art galleries than any other British city except London.
The city centre is compact enough to walk around, so you can really get to grips with it over a weekend. Start on Hope Street, part of an elegant Georgian neighbourhood, topped and tailed by the city’s two 20th-century cathedrals – the Gothic revival red sandstone Anglican one, designed by Sir Giles Gilbert Scott; and the Catholic cathedral known affectionately as Paddy’s Wigwam, a modernist, egalitarian ‘in the round’ design, with windows of stained glass and a rooftop circle of spires that resembles a crown of thorns. If you’re after some retail therapy, much of the city centre is given over to shopping malls, offering everything from Primark to bespoke Vivienne Westwood. Near the latter’s establishment is the site of The Cavern Club (cavernclub.org). From here, Beatlemaniacs can book a Magical Mystery bus tour, which takes in landmarks such as Penny Lane and Strawberry Field. Shopped out? Load up on some culture – many of the city’s art galleries and museums are free to visit, from the Walker Art Gallery (liverpoolmuseums.org.uk), next to Lime Street Station, to the dockside Tate Liverpool. This is part of the recently restored Albert Dock, an imposing waterside quadrangle of red-brick and cast iron-warehouses, which now makes up the heart of the city’s maritime past. A short stroll along the waterfront brings you to the pier head, and to a trio of buildings known as the Three Graces, built in the early 20th century to symbolise Liverpool’s wealth and industrial clout. Perched on top of the Royal Liver Building, the iconic Liver Birds keep watch over the city and the sea.
The rooms at the stylish Hope Street Hotel (0151 709 3000, hopestreethotel.co.uk) are an urban, loft-living paradise of sleek wood and exposed brickwork, with huge bathrooms and big comfy beds. Stop by the hotel’s snug bar for cocktails or a nightcap, or dine in the excellent restaurant, the London Carriage Works (0151 705 2222, thelondoncarriageworks.co.uk). Alternatively, the Malmaison Liverpool (0151 229 5000, malmaison.com) on the waterfront is part of a small chain of hip luxury hotels with an emphasis on good food and wine.
A great spot for lunch is Delifonseca on Stanley Street (0151 255 0808, delifonseca.co.uk). Take away some charcuterie, olives and cheeses from the deli or dine on dahl and coconut curry or Italian-inspired flatbread. There’s an extensive beer and wine list, too. On the ground floor of a graceful Georgian terrace, you’ll find 60 Hope Street (0151 707 6060, 60hopestreet.com), which serves unpretentious but sophisticated modern British dishes and a fine Sunday roast. Il Forno on Duke Street is a popular family-run Italian restaurant (0151 709 4002, ilforno.co.uk). If dancing and cocktails are your thing, don your glad rags and head down to Alma de Cuba (0151 702 7394, almadecuba.com), housed in a former church on Seel Street. Hordes of young locals descend here on weekends, dressed to the nines, but if you’re after something more sedate, it also offers brunch and tapas. If you’ve been to a concert at the Liverpool Philharmonic Hall, on Hope Street, drop by The Philharmonic Dining Rooms (0151 707 2837, nicholsonspubs.co.uk) for last orders; it’s a glorious Victorian pub – all mahogany panelling, mosaics, gilded plaster curlicues and chandeliers.
To get your bearings of the city, climb the Anglican Cathedral’s 154-metre Vestey Tower.
Liverpool is two hours and 15 minutes by train from London, or four hours by road. The airport offers international connections.
Virgin Trains (virgintrains.co.uk) has services from London Euston to Liverpool Lime Street.
National Express (nationalexpress.com) offers services from Leeds, London, Bristol, Birmingham, Manchester and Heathrow.
Visit Liverpool (visitliverpool.com) has information on getting to the city, sightseeing, shopping, eating and tours.
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