Why go?

Laos’ jungle-clad jewel crouches at the convergence of two rivers and is often the highlight of a South East Asian grand tour. Perhaps it’s the pace of the old city, which, when compared with neighbours Bangkok or Ho Chi Minh City, is positively soporific; or the friendliness of its people, who would rather chat than take your money. The country was a French territory between 1887 and 1954 and the legacy can be seen in everything from the abundance of boulangerie to the red-tiled roofs on Lang Xang Avenue.

What to do

Hire a bike and cycle past the peninsula’s colonial houses, sugar palms and narrow backstreets, taking in its 33 gleaming wats (Buddhist temples), where apprentice monks dressed in saffron robes are keen to engage with tourists. Kuang Si Falls, a 30-minute ride by tuk-tuk, provides an idyllic setting to cool off in turquoise cascades before visiting the Asiatic Black Bear Rescue Sanctuary (in the same park), where bears rescued from bile farms now lead a much happier existence. Elephant treks are popular, however, we recommend only using Elephant Village elephantvillage-laos.com who avoid the use of a heavy howdah (beds strapped to the animal’s back). In the evening, make your way to the magical night market on Sisavangvong Road, where you can buy anything from home-made paper lanterns to silk shawls, silverware and woodcarvings. A visit to Luang Prabang is not complete without a spa treatment, the best of which can be found at Mekong Spa at La Résidence Phou Vao belmond.com where a one-hour massage costs £52. Take an evening’s cooking class (£20) at Tamarind tamarindlaos.com where you will perfect the art of sticky rice and make mok pa, fragrant sh steamed in a banana leaf, or try a morning in the shoes (or bare feet) of a rice farmer, steering a friendly buffalo yoked to a plough with The Living Land 00 856 20 55 199 208, Kuang Si Waterfall Road, Ban Pongvang.

Where to stay

On the peninsula facing the Khan The Apsara 00 856 71 254 670, theapsara.com delights with its Indochine design and light-infused rooms with wood floors, glass Buddha statue and silk screens. Satri House 00 856 71 253 491, satrihouse.com is a confection of dark-wood furniture and four- poster clad rooms set in manicured gardens. Among the larger hotels, Amantaka 00 856 71 860 333, aman.com based in a former French government building, exudes old-world charm and has spacious, minimalist rooms, many with private plunge pools. Set within the walls of a former French governor’s residence, So tel Luang Prabang 00 856 71 260 777, so tel.com is stunning. Rooms are gun-grey with high ceilings and private gardens.

Where to eat and drink

Tamarind 00 856 71 213 128, tamarindlaos.com sits amid greenery on the Nam Khan River and within its lime-green walls you’ll find some of the best modern Lao cuisine in the country. Try the sampling platters of laap (pork mince with shallots, coriander, lemon and lettuce), soup and stir-fries. Located at the end of the peninsula, café-cum-bakery Le Banneton 00 856 30 5788 340 offers the best breakfast in town; think crêpes and baguettes as well as fine Arabica coffee. Long the city’s top gastro venue, L’Eléphant 00 856 71 252 482, elephant-restau.com is celebrated for its fine Gallic dining. Expect dishes such as escargots, steak tartare and vegetables spirited fresh from their organic farm, or the Menu du Chasseur (£23), which offers soup, terrines and duck breast. Closer to the city centre, Le Café Ban Vat Sene 00 856 71 252 482 enchants with its chandeliers, handsome bar and belle époque lighting, plus a decadent sweet trolley boasting éclairs, chocolate gateau and raspberry mousse. Close by, is Laos’ friendliest bar, The Icon Klub 00 856 71 254 905, iconklub.com with its 1930s Berlin vibe.

Time running out?

At sunset, head to the Riverside Sunset bar, Khem Kong, to take in views over the Mekong River (and of traditional shing boats returning home) with a Beerlao in hand.

Travel Information

Travel Information

Currency is the Lao kip. Time is seven hours ahead of GMT. Flight time from London is around 18 hours. The cost to carbon-offset is £27.52. For more details visit climatecare.org

Getting There

British Airways fly from London Heathrow via Bangkok ba.com

Singapore Airlines has thrice weekly flights to Luang Prabang from London Heathrow, via Singapore. singaporeair.com

Resources

Tourism Luang Prabang has a host of useful tips on how to get the most out of your visit to the city. tourismluangprabang.org