Cabo Girao  Fc  Turismo Da  Madeira (9)

Madeira

This Portuguese island, lapped by the Atlantic, has the climate, kitchen, ecosystem and heritage to draw distinguished travellers from all over the world, finds Mark Sansom.

Travel Time 3hrs 30min

Why go?

With an excellent year-round climate, Madeira is a sure- fire destination for winter sun. It’s history dates to the 14th century, with some of the most established wine traditions in Europe.

What to do

The whole island is an ode to responsible conservation. While the world felled trees, Madeirans ring-fenced heritage sites, leaving the island with the largest laurel forest in the world. Indeed, a trip wouldn’t be complete without an afternoon spent in Laurissilva Forest, a Unesco-registered site occupying 20 per cent of the island, where you might be lucky enough to catch the last-remaining Madeiran long-toed pigeons on Earth, naturemeetings.com. Trace the levadas – unique 500-year-old Portuguese waterways – as they meander across the island. Sign- posted walks follow their path, criss-crossing the countryside over distances from 5km to 13km, madeiralevadawalks.com.

A trip to the island wouldn’t be complete without riding the street toboggans, whose drivers whisk you through a 5km course across the city for under £10 a ride. Far quicker than taxis and more exhilarating, it’s the only way to get around. For more sedate afternoons, see the 16th-century Albergaria Catedral, followed by a well-earned trip to Blandy’s Wine Lodge – the largest on Madeira – to taste and buy the island’s eponymous fortified wine. Pick up some to take home too. www.blandyswinelodge.com

Where to stay

There’s an ideal mix of high-end and affordable on the island, thanks to the huge demographic split of winter sun chasers. Number one is The Vine Hotel, winner of countless design awards. The handiwork of world-leading interiors expert Nini Andrade Silva (an islander herself), the five-star, 79-room hotel is styled as a modernist representation of the surrounding vineyards. It has all the facilities you’d expect, though the real plum spot is the terrace surrounding the pool, overlooking the city, 00 351 291 009 000, www.hotelthevine.com.

Choupana Hills continues in the same vein, with an exclusive spa, individually-crafted rooms and a gastronomic restaurant to rival anything on the mainland. Its hillside location makes it the pick for a laid-back break, 00 351 291 206 020, choupanahills.com. For good value, but still excellent service, look up the four-star Savoy Gardens. It has 119 rooms, with a rooftop pool and restaurants serving local steak – seared over coals at your table – and a bar using the area’s specialist spirits (no, we’re not talking about ubiquitous ‘local’ spirits here), 00 351 291 213 015. hotelsavoygardensmadeira.com.

For an archetypal beachside stay, book into Vidamar Resort: two pools; private beach; excellent restaurants; comfortable rooms. Just the ticket, 00 351 291 717 777, vidamarresortsmadeira.com

Where to eat and drink

Restaurant culture varies between modern European (think overzealous touts and laminated menus) and some really divine spots. Go to Jaquet perched on Funchal Harbour for some of the best seafood on the island and ask for ‘Luis’. The owner always responds better to guests who ask for him by name. Though if you’re looking for Michelin recognition, you can do no better than clifftop Villa Cipriani, 00 351 291 717 171. www.belmond.com.

Madeira’s great and the good flock at weekends to try the crab ravioli, lightly spiced pumpkin gnocchi and other Italian classics. For something a little more traditional, head a few clicks out of Funchal to Santa Cruz and Casal da Penha. Its Madeiran fish stew is one of the best, 00 351 291 227 674, casaldapenha.com. Vegetarians may find themselves going hungry on Madeira, but look out for gratinated artichokes and aubergine served myriad ways at nearly every restaurant.

Time running out?

Take afternoon tea at Reid’s Palace hotel. Winston Churchill used to retire to Madeira for a week every year to further his painting skills. What he ordered is still on the menu; two guesses as to what it is. It’s a real slice of Blighty away from home.

Map

Travel Information

Travel Information

Currency in Portugal is the euro. Time is the same as GMT, and journey time from the UK to Madeira is about 3.5 hours. Cost to carbon-offset is £4.04, visit www.climatecare.org

Getting There

EasyJet flies direct from London Gatwick to Madeira Airport – which is located near Funchal on the east coast of the island – four days a week. www.easyjet.com

Resources

Visit Portugal is the official tourist board website and an essential resource for planning your trip. www.visitportugal.com

Average daily temperatures and rainfall

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