Why go?

A sprawling metropolis nestled in the Andes, Medellín (pronounced locally as med-eezheen) may be known as the City of Eternal Spring – but it’s far from walkable. With distinctive neighbourhoods fractured by wide, winding highways and steep swathes of greenery, Colombia’s second largest city is best explored by moto – a fast, affordable way to weave through its sunshine-dappled streets and dive into a food, bar and coffee scene that never stands still. Bonus: you’ll earn instant kudos from the locals, known as paisas.

Once marred by its association with Pablo Escobar and the Medellín cartel, the city has undergone a remarkable transformation since the turn of the century. Its famously warm and welcoming residents have reclaimed their home, ushering in a new era of growth, regeneration and creativity.

Today, the city pulses with innovative food and drink concepts, sophisticated public transport networks, striking architecture and thriving independent businesses. Known for its tree-lined streets and sleek high-rises, El Poblado – site of the first Spanish settlement, founded in 1616 – is the most recognisable symbol of this renaissance, but neighbourhoods like Laureles, La Candelaria and Envigado offer a deeper, more authentic glimpse into local life beyond the tourist trail.

Long celebrated for its year-round greenery, Medellín takes on an especially fragrant air in July as the city readies itself for the Feria de las Flores. This beloved flower festival bursts into full bloom each August, filling the streets with colour, music and parades in tribute to the region’s rich floral heritage. Alongside the festivities comes a surge of locales de comida – entrepreneurial paisas setting up stalls or roaming the streets with anything from freshly grilled arepas con queso (cheese-filled corn cakes) to fluffy buñuelos (dough fritters) and vibrant, perfectly ripe mango ready to eat on the go. Better still, snack as you wander through lively Plaza Botero, where street performers and vendors mingle amid Fernando Botero’s famously plump, larger-than-life bronze sculptures, which add a touch of humour to the city’s artistic soul.

What to do

Where to stay

Tucked into the hills of El Poblado, Elcielo Hotel is the sleek, sophisticated brainchild of Michelin-starred chef and Medellín native Juan Manuel Barrientos. Offering breathtaking city and mountain views, this elegant, sumptuous ode to Colombian culture boasts a rooftop pool, atrium garden and sprawling suites furnished with tactile, natural materials. Its eponymous restaurant delivers a taste of the country’s diverse culinary heritage through a range of multi-sensory dining experiences. elcielohotel.com

Nearby, The Charlee is instantly recognisable for its striking, wood-clad, foliage draped exterior. Offering a more boutique hotel experience overlooking the bustling Parque Lleras, the warm and organic cosseting space is a haven of calm in an area otherwise thrumming with energy – although the regular DJ sets and Salsa Wednesdays on the Envy rooftop can get lively. thecharlee.com

Seeking serenity? Head to Laureles, a leafy residential neighbourhood west of the city centre, where elegant, modern lofts (many available on Airbnb) offer stunning views of the Andes and the sparkling skyline, especially magical against the pale pink dusk sky. airbnb.com

Where to eat and drink

Amid Medellín’s ever-evolving food and drink scene, one constant remains: the humble bandeja paisa, a cultural emblem of Colombia’s Antioquia region. A hearty platter of rice, red beans, chicharrón (fried pork belly), ground beef, chorizo, blood sausage, fried egg, sweet plantain, avocado and arepa, it was originally designed to sustain the region’s farmers, arrieros (muleteers) and miners through long days of hard labour. Today, it’s no longer essential, but still deeply beloved, with countless restaurants serving their own version. Hacienda Junin in La Candelaria is one of the best-known, its balconies brimming with lush greenery. haciendaorigen.com

Meanwhile, Mondongo’s is a casual, budget-friendly spot where local families gather around wipe-down tables to dig into bandeja paisa or the namesake soup: a rich broth of tripe, vegetables, achiote and cumin served with rice, avocado, banana and arepa flatbreads. mondongos.com.co

As the name suggests, Ajiacos y Mondongos specialises in Colombia’s classic soups – ajiaco, a hearty chicken and potato stew fl avoured with guascas, and the beloved tripe dish – alongside rich cazuela de frijoles, a red bean stew with beef, plantain and pork belly. +57 604 312 2520

For a taste of Medellín’s artisan coffee scene, head to Pergamino. Known for championing locally grown beans once reserved for export, its baristas serve inventive drinks like the cold brew guandolo – a tangy mix of soda water, lemon and coffee with a panela-sugar rim. The Laureles branch, centred on a leafy courtyard, is the one to seek out. co.pergamino.co

Craving something a little more refi ned? Book a lingering seven-course lunch at Carmen, where two Cordon Bleu-trained chefs spotlight Colombia’s rich biodiversity and regional variations in a lush tropical setting in El Poblado. carmenmedellin.com

Time running out?

Travel Information

Travel Information

Getting There

Resources