Why go?

As winter sets in, a few days in India’s most cosmopolitan city is a tempting prospect. A bustling metropolis of 14 million people, Mumbai encapsulates all that’s great about this proud and evocative nation that wears its heart on its sleeve. But unlike some other Indian cities, Mumbai – or Bombay as it was once known – is rich in more than just deep-rooted culture and heritage. In recent years, a wave of new restaurants, boutiques and cafés has turned Mumbai into a hedonistic escape full of Indian flair.

What to do

Rise early and make a beeline for the harbour. Taking pride of place there is the Gateway of India, the iconic basalt archway that stands 26m tall, erected in the early 20th century during the days of the British Raj. A serene spot in the morning, it becomes frantic and crowded after lunch with hawkers peddling everything from souvenir snaps to horse and cart rides. More impressive architecture awaits at the gothic Chhatrapati Shivaji railway station. Completed in 1888 and originally named the Victoria Terminus in honour of Queen Victoria’s Golden Jubilee, the vast station has been declared a Unesco World Heritage site for its striking interior’s arches and friezes. From there, catch a cab to Malabar Hill. This desirable neighbourhood of leafy parks, sparkling lakes and incense-filled temples is a quiet escape from the rest of the city. Elsewhere, discover the secrets of Bollywood at Film City (filmcitymumbai.org), then visit nearby Sanjay Gandhi National Park (sanjaygandhinationalpark.net), an untouched wilderness of forests, caves, lakes and lurking leopards on the city’s northern outskirts. Don’t miss a stroll down Marine Drive, the 3km crescent-shaped promenade overlooking the Arabian Sea. Visit at sunset when families and couples gather under the palm trees on Chowpatty Beach and heady scents drift around the food stalls.

Where to stay

Bed down like a maharaja at the landmark Taj Mahal Palace and Tower (00 91 22 6665 3366, tajhotels.com), which has been welcoming the most discerning of travellers since 1903. The hotel, recently restored and opposite the Gateway of India, pays tribute to its unique heritage with Mughal touches throughout. Mumbai’s other leading hotel is the Oberoi (00 91 22 6632 5757, oberoihotels.com), stunningly located on Marine Drive. Guests are ushered through its airy atrium and into rooms with marble fittings and furniture upholstered in hand-woven silk. There’s also a spa open around the clock. When the pace of the city gets too much, there’s no better retreat than the rooftop pool at the Marine Plaza Hotel (00 91 22 2285 1212, hotelmarineplaza.com). Take a dip while savouring the views of Chowpatty Beach

Where to eat and drink

Mumbai’s size means that it has something to offer for every palate from fine dining to cheap and cheerful. Vegetarian restaurant Chetana (00 91 22 2284 4968, chetana.com) is famed for its spicy and inexpensive thalis – a selection of small Indian dishes cooked without oil and served simultaneously. Meanwhile, the chefs at Trishna (00 91 22 2270 3214), sister restaurant to the London eaterie, pay daily visits to the Sassoon Docks in search of fish freshly caught by local fishermen. As a result, Trishna is renowned for serving the best seafood in town. Try the baked Hyderabadi crab cooked with garlic, onions and diced herbs. If you fancy an aperitif where the cocktails are as sweet as the views, Aer – the rooftop bar of the Four Seasons hotel (0091 22 2481 8000, fourseasons. com) – cannot be beaten. For refreshment back at street level, try the delicious fruit lassis at Kyani & Co (00 91 22 2201 1492), a charming café favoured by locals for its home-baked cakes

Time running out?

Make sense of Mumbai’s most head-spinning market on a two-hour walking tour. As well as an opportunity to hunt down bargains of all varieties, the guided stroll around Chor Bazaar (chor means thief in Hindi) with Mumbai Magic (mumbaimagic.com) reveals serene temples and offers you the chance to meet members of the city’s oldest fishing community. Just be sure to brush up your haggling skills before starting your shopping.

Travel Information

Travel Information

Currency in Mumbai is the Indian Rupee. Mumbai is five and a half hours ahead of GMT; the flight time from London is nine hours.

Getting There

Air India (airindia.com) flies direct to Mumbai five times a day from London Heathrow.
Virgin (virginatlantic.com) begins direct flights from London toMumbai at the end of October.

Resources

Tourism India (tourismindia.com) offers practical and background information on Mumbai for when you are planning your trip.