Why go?

It’s one of the most beautiful cities in the Middle East – nearly 900 years old with far less of the glitz and plastic glamour you might have come to expect from similar stately capitals.

What to do

Top of the list of local sites are the Mirani and Jalali Forts, both built in the 16th century by the Portuguese and captured by the Ottomans some 20 years after. Now they sit proudly above the marina, towering down as a reminder of the city’s multicultural history. Ensure you don’t miss the Muttrah Souq: labyrinthine streets with overpowering heat, aromas and a kaleidoscope of colours that sum up the city perfectly. Buy a souvenir or two, perhaps some authentic frankincense in time for Christmas, or silver charm bands for a loved one. As you’d expect, haggling is par for the course. In our experience, kicking the negotiation off with a joke and a smile rather than playing hardball will keep them on side. The Sultan’s Al Alam Palace isn’t to be missed. Over 200 years old, built by a direct grandfather of the current Sultan. Even though you’re not allowed in – in spite of the fact His Majesty is very rarely there – it’s worth strolling by for the gilded photograph opportunities. If it’s a beach you seek (though it won’t be for long in the searing 40 ̊C heat), look no further than Qantab, just a couple of miles from the centre of town. Expect to see families sun bathing and frolicking in the sea, all fully clothed, obviously.

Where to stay

Like the rest of the Middle East, Muscat has myriad five-stars of equal quality. The Chedi is a favourite, with genuine idiosyncratic quality (so often lost among chain five stars). The 103m-long pool helps and Muscat’s largest spa does nothing to detract. The intricacy of cuisine that comes from The Restaurant here belies its simple-sounding name. Fish is its speciality, though pan-Asian is well represented, 00 968 24 524400, ghmhotels. com. As you’d expect from its other international outposts, the Shangri La is befitting of an area of such glamour, with nine stellar restaurants (not including the three pool bars, four lounges, three cafes, two piano bars and private beach bar). It’s about 20 minutes’ drive from the main city, which is a boon in many respects. Not least of all, it means less of the dust, noise and light pollution that characterises many Middle Eastern capitals, 00 968 24 776666, shangrila.com. The other stand-out option is the Six Senses, with 82 individual pool villas that blend traditional Omani villages with modern amenities. Food, again, is a strong suit, with Sense on the Edge the top restaurant to opt for if you’re just there for a night or two, 00 968 26 735555, sixsenses.com

Where to eat and drink

There was no restaurant culture in Oman before the oil was first tapped. The Western impact has been strong, retail fast food chains flocking to the malls. Indeed, you can see fast food taking its toll on the youth. Omanis are opening Arabic restaurants where seating is a mixture of segregated family areas. Here, menus tend to be a blend of Indian, European and Arabic. Fish is always immaculate and well cooked. Meat dishes are on the whole large and you’ll certainly see a Big Mac. Ubhar serves Middle Eastern fusion. There’s a lightness of touch to dishes that owe everything to chef Kenza’s skill. Expect to pay £63 for two people, 00 968 24 699826, ubharoman.com. Kargeen is more of an Arabic Hard Rock than a fine dining restaurant but with outside space. The latter gets crowded with sisha smokers of an evening. Fresh juices and mocktails are top-drawer. Snacks start from £3; meals from £31 for two, Al Wattayah, 00 968 24 699055. White Coral Seafood & Grill specialises in fish, though has a private tea room majoring in Arabic food. With a bit of notice, chef will cook authentic shuwa (sharing plates) for groups. Pay around £31 for four people, Azabia, 00 968 22 020307.

Time running out?

Make sure at least one evening is spent taking in Muscat at dusk. As the sun sets over the minarets it’s one of the most beautiful sights. And, at £40 a tour, it’s great value.

Travel Information

Travel Information

Oman’s currency is the rial. Muscat is four hours ahead of GMT. Travel time is about seven hours from London Heathrow to Muscat airport. The best time to visit the capital is usually from late September to early April.

Getting There

Oman Air offers daily direct flights between London Heathrow and Muscat, omanair.com

Resources

Oman Ministry of Tourism has a UK office that can be contacted on 020 8877 4524, omantourism.gov.om