Why go?

The heartland of country music is having a moment. The food scene has exploded in recent years, with renowned chefs and food trucks putting local produce at the fore. Neighbourhoods which were on the wrong side of the tracks are blossoming, while design-led hotels open at a staggering rate. However, the city hasn’t forgotten its roots. It’s as gloriously bourbon-swigging and brash as you imagine, with every waiter an aspiring songwriter and every busker the next big thing. From 4 May it will be even more accessible, thanks to new direct flights from London with BA.

What to do

Start with a stroll along 12th Avenue South until you reach Imogene and Willie imogeneandwillie.com a cult denim emporium in a converted gas station, and Savant Vintage 00 1 615 385 0856 which has a huge collection of pre-loved cowboy boots at great prices. Once you’re dressed like a local, head to the neighbourhoods spearheading the city’s transformation. East Nashville is the haunt of creatives sipping espressos in cafés such as Barista Parlour baristaparlor.com while Germantown is a hive of independent shops. It doesn’t get more iconic than a Saturday night in the Ryman Auditorium ryman.com – the birthplace of the Grand Ole Opry, the cult weekly live show that has been going since 1925. In May, you can catch the likes of Margo Price, Fleet Foxes and the monthly Opry Country Classics showcase on the original stage. Book early to bag a seat at legendary listening rooms The Bluebird Café 00 1 615 383 1461, bluebirdcafe.com or take your chances in the raucous honky-tonks that line Lower Broadway. A wide- eyed Willie Nelson and fresh-faced Patsy Cline both played at Tootsie’s Orchid Lounge tootsies.net near the riverfront. For a quieter slice of culture go to the Frist Centre fristcenter.org for We Shall Overcome, an exhibition about the Civil Rights Movement.

Where to stay

Over the last few years a wave of boutique options has improved the city’s hotel scene. Nowhere embodies the zeitgeist more than Urban Cowboy 00 1 347 840 0525 urbancowboybnb.com a hip guesthouse in a Queen Anne Victorian mansion in East Nashville. Head to Thompson Nashville thompsonhotels.com for subtler elegance and stellar views over downtown. A few steps from Music Row, the Hutton Hotel 00 1 615 340 9333, huttonhotel.com is the most luxurious of the boutiques. Writers’ rooms kitted out with recording equipment root you firmly in Music City, while midnight blue and gold accents add sophistication. Try The Germantown Inn, 00 1 615 581 1218, germantowninn.com for a more intimate option.

Where to eat and drink

Join the locals at Arnold’s Country Kitchen arnoldscountrykitchen.com which has been serving Southern soul food, such as Nashville hot chicken and fruit tea punch, for over 30 years. May is Street Food Month, when the city’s 60-strong fleet of food trucks embrace the balmy weather and gear up for summer. Head to Nashville Farmers’ Market on Rosa L Parks Boulevard to sample regional classics from the Biscuit Love Truck (biscuits – akin to what we would call ‘scones’ – and gravy are a Tennessee staple) and The Rolling Feast, which specialises in Southern and Latin-inspired food. The Catbird Seat thecatbirdseatrestaurant.com has been at the forefront of the city’s fine-dining scene since it opened in 2011. Watch a team led by Ryan Poli create dishes such as smoked potatoes in sour butter with caviar. Chef Philip Krajeck, owner of Rolf and Daughters 00 1 615 866 9897, rolfanddaughters.com has played a key role in championing nose-to-tail and produce-lead cooking. Expect deceptively simple plates such as garganelli verde with pork ragout, and orange, daikon and celery salad.

Time running out?

It’s easy to imagine Scarlett O’Hara flouncing around Belle Meade Mansion. A 45-minute tour provides an insight into Southern history. bellemeadeplantation.com

Travel Information

Travel Information

Currency is the US dollar. Time is six hours behind GMT. Fight time from London is around 9 hours, direct.

Getting There

British Airways has five direct flights per week from London Heathrow to Nashville International Airport. ba.com

United also flies from London Heathrow to Nashville with one stop (various US cities). united.com

Resources

Visit Music City is Nashville’s official tourist board and its website is packed full of recommendations. visitmusiccity.com