Why go?

Eccentric, engaging and a whole lot of fun, New Orleans (or ‘NOLA’ to its friends) dances loud and proud to its own tune. An upbeat musical tempo and an unstoppable joie de vivre in the streets and bars are characteristic of a people who refused to be kept down by the devastating hurricane that swept through the city just a decade ago. Throw on some colourful carnival beads and join in the party, whatever time of the day or night.

What to do

Wandering through the streets of the French Quarter uncovers a quirky shop, bustling diner or street performance at every turn. Grand antebellum mansions sit cheek-by-jowl with tall, Spanish buildings complete with cast-iron balconies and old carriageways leading to secret courtyards. Built to the plan of a late-medieval French town in a grid 12 blocks by six, its central square was renamed 200 years ago in honour of President Andrew Jackson. Away from the French Quarter, a trip aboard a 1920s green Perley Thomas streetcar will take you rattling past stately homes uptown to the Garden District, famous for its elegant architecture. Be sure to alight at Napoleon Avenue and head south until you reach Magazine Street, magazinestreet.com, for boutiques and buzzing cafés that run along this 10km stretch. Whatever the time of year, New Orleans nights are all about live music. From blues to Dixieland jazz and fast-tempo zydeco, NOLA musicians have created, inspired or reinvented it. These days, Bourbon Street is a bit too bawdy for all but the most hardcore of revellers. Head instead to Frenchmen Street for live, up-and-coming acts at The Spotted Cat, spottedcatmusicclub.com, or established musicians and table service at the candle-lit Snug Harbor jazz club, snugjazz.com (book ahead). From 24 April to 3 May, the New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Festival, nojazzfest.com, features headline performances from The Who and Elton John.

Where to stay

Bought by Italian Antonio Monteleone in 1886, four-star Hotel Monteleone, hotelmonteleone.com, on the corner of Royal and Iberville streets in the French Quarter is one of the last great family-owned-and-operated hotels in New Orleans. A dip in the rooftop pool provides fantastic city views. While the slow-moving Carousel Bar might not get your head in a spin, a signature Vieux Carre whiskey cocktail probably will. Fancy a more intimate stay? The 19th-century Soniat House, soniathouse.com, on Chartres Street has 31 rooms and suites, and is a well-restored labour of love from owners Rodney and Frances Smith. Expect tasteful antiques and sun-dappled courtyards.

Where to eat and drink

Breakfast is a serious business in New Orleans. Try a breakfast burrito or fresh berry pancakes at GG’s Dineorama, on Magazine Street. Right on Jackson Square, Stanley, stanleyrestaurant.com, offers a signature Eggs Stanley brunch of cornmeal-crusted oysters, poached eggs, bacon and creole hollandaise. For lunch, choose from around 50 types of baguette ‘po-boy’ sandwiches at Johnny’s, including classic roast beef and fried shrimp. A lot of the dishes in this port city are unique to the region, so even the most adventurous gourmands might need help deciphering the menu. Eat like the locals and try out a lively creole and cajun hands-on class at The New Orleans School of Cooking, neworleansschoolofcooking.com, on St Louis Street. For a modern and meaty supper, Cochon, http://www.cochonrestaurant.com, in the Warehouse district serves cajun pork and rice-stuffed ‘boudin’ sausages, as well as small plates of fried alligator (yes, it tastes like chicken). Seafood fans should look out for fresh catches of plump shrimp, lobster-like crawfish and hand-shucked Louisiana oysters. You’ll find all three on the menu at Deanies, deanies.com, in the fishing village of Bucktown or at its French Quarter outpost on Iberville Street.

Time running out?

Daily airboat tours offer an adventure through the swamps and a chance to see some of the animals of the bayou, including ten-foot ’gators and other critters. Snap to it.

Travel Information

Travel Information

Currency is the US dollar. Time difference is six hours behind GMT. Flight time is nine hours to Atlanta then 1.5 hours to New Orleans. Cost to carbon offset is £15.73, visit climatecare.org

Getting There

Virgin Atlantic flies daily from London Heathrow to Atlanta Hartsfield-Jackson and on to New Orleans Louis Armstrong with partner airline Delta. virginatlantic.com

Resources

New Orleans Official Guide lists hotels, top tour operators and a calendar of events. neworleansonline.com