Why go?

Divided in half since 1974, Cyprus’s capital is a fascinating and enticing city that bears witness to its many invasions and occupations – Crusader, Venetian, Ottoman, British. The smarter Greek-Cypriot south has fine museums, gilded churches and sophisticated dining, while the Turkish-occupied north is rich in Ottoman architecture. Today it’s easy and safe to cross the ‘Green Line’ and experience both cultures on your trip. Nicosia is a major financial centre for the Middle East, meaning it’s far less reliant on tourism than the rest of Cyprus. November, with the weather still balmy and the mass hordes departed the island, is the perfect time to wander and ponder this complex yet captivating metropolis.

What to do

The preserved Old City, built by Venetian conquerors in the 16th century, is the main draw. Start the morning with a strong Greek coffee and spend some time exploring the citadel walls, the outline of which is Nicosia’s distinctive logo. The Old City itself is a network of alleys that lead you past crumbling colonial houses and jewel-like Orthodox churches. Stroll the route of the ‘Green Line’ to immerse yourself in the oldest and prettiest neighbourhoods or join a regular free walking tour. The sandstone Hadjigeorgakis Kornesios Mansion 00 357 22 305316 is a perfectly restored merchant’s house with a tranquil courtyard. Don’t miss the Cyprus Museum 00 357 22 865854 which houses a fabulous collection of archaeological finds. You won’t want to visit without crossing into the Turkish-occupied north, via the Ledra Street checkpoint and the eerie buffer zone: it’s a trip back in time to a quieter era, full of unspoilt Ottoman lanes and houses. Wonder at the Selimiye Mosque, formerly a 13th-century Gothic cathedral, enjoy the cafés and thriving craft workshops of the medieval caravanserai Büyük Han, and even luxuriate in the scents and steam of Büyük Hamam.

Where to stay

The Hilton Cyprus hilton.com, the island’s flagship hotel, has long been a meeting place for the great and the not always so good, and has the luxurious rooms, pools and fine dining you’d expect. The Classic Hotel classic.com.cy a chic mid-century-style block within the Old City walls, has fresh, modern rooms and marble bathrooms. For something more traditional, the Sandstone sandstonecyprus.com offers tastefully furnished rooms in an Old City house, with picturesque balconies, green shutters and pretty tiling. Most visitors stay in the south and make day trips to the north, however for a healthy dose of Turkish glitz, check into the five-star Golden Tulip goldentulipnicosia.com. It’s a bit of a mini-Vegas, complete with casino, opulent pool, spa and gym.

Where to eat and drink

Cypriots are passionate about food and it’s not hard to see why. The cuisine is not simply a mélange of Greek and Turkish, but has Middle Eastern influences too in its sumptuous stews, stuffed vegetables, cracked grains and pulses. Meze is the name of the game, so head to Zanettos Taverna zanettos.com a locals’ favourite, to savour plates of the best in town: specialities include smoked Cyprus sausage, pork marinated in wine and coriander, snails and grilled halloumi in pita. Afterwards enjoy fragrant Lebanese mahalepi washed down with Commandaria, Cyprus’s ancient dessert wine. For a taste of the Med inland, Pyxida pyxida shtavern.com is a fabulous sh restaurant, offering fresh catch in a chic, modern setting – try the tuna carpaccio, seabass or grilled octopus. No Reservations noreservationsrestaurant.com has had rave reviews for its innovative take on local ingredients – sample dishes are stuffed zucchini owers with bagna cauda or rack of lamb with garlic sour cream. You’ll surely want to sample some street food too: Sham Food 00 357 22 333381 does lip-smacking shawarma, while in the north the Bereket bakery near Büyük Han bashes out the most tempting Turkish pizza from a stone oven, oozing with halloumi and fragrant lamb.

Time running out?

Café culture is central to Nicosia life, so head to Makarios Avenue late afternoon for frappés and people-watching.

Travel Information

Travel Information

Currency is the euro (and Turkish lira in North Nicosia). Time is two hours ahead of GMT. Flight time from London is around 4.5 hours.

Getting There

British Airways has direct daily flights from London Heathrow to Larnaca Airport, 40 kilometres from Nicosia. britishairways.com

easyJet also operates direct flights from London Gatwick and Liverpool John Lennon to Larnaca. easyjet.com

Resources

Visit Cyprus is the local tourist board’s guide, full of things to do in Nicosia and further afield on the island. visitcyprus.com