Why go?

Once the lace-producing capital of the world, and an industrial engine-room for Victorian Britain, Nottingham has stepped out from the shadows of its smoggy past and reinvented itself as a thoroughly modern city. Art galleries, independent cafés and shops, a wealth of interesting architecture and fantastic regional food combine to make Nottingham the must-visit city of the Midlands.

What to do

Starting with the panoramic view that determined the city’s location as a defensive stronghold, the imposing Nottingham Castle (nottinghamcastle.org.uk) is the best place to get a lay of the land. The castle was once an impregnable fortress that played a pivotal role in the English Civil War, but it’s much easier to get into these days. Round off a browse of the castle’s impressive museum and art gallery with an atmospheric descent through the warren-like caves that burrow beneath it and were once used as makeshift living quarters of Parliamentary soldiers during the civil war. We have them to thank for the tunnel that emerges around the side of the Ye Olde Trip to Jerusalem (greenekingpubs.co.uk), reputedly the oldest pub in England. Built into the side of Castle Rock, it also has its own cave system, which once would have served as the brewhouse for the castle itself. Warm up with a pint of its ruby-red namesake ale before cutting across town to the Nottingham Contemporary (nottinghamcontemporary.org). Sitting on the fringe of the city’s historic Lace Market area, this stunning new art space conceals four cavernous galleries behind its razorsharp shell. It’s also the site of the first stop on the Robin Hood tour (ezekialbone.com) of the city, led by the fabled outlaw himself. Yes, he’s in costume and, yes, there’s talk of ‘making merry’. But it’s also a genuinely informative and entertaining way to burn off lunch. And after all the walking, afternoon tea at Thea Caffea (0115 941 2110) in the town centre is a reward well earned.

Where to stay

Hart’s Hotel (0115 988 1900, hartsnottingham.co.uk), which from its position on the former ramparts of the castle boasts a view of the city few other buildings can match, is Nottingham’s best boutique property. The rooms are high-spec, yet understated. Set in a restored Georgian townhouse, the Lace Market Hotel (0115 852 3223, lacemarkethotel.co.uk) is a good base for exploring the industrial quarter. Its Merchants Restaurant serves up great British grub, and the Saint bar mixes a mean cocktail. De Vere Orchard Hotel (0871 222 4836, phcompany.com) is sleek and eco-friendly, with living roofs, floor to-ceiling windows and bespoke furniture. It’s five kilometres from the centre, and overlooks the grounds of the University of Nottingham.

Where to eat and drink

Start with brunch at Delilah Fine Foods (0115 948 4461, delilahfinefoods.co.uk). You might have to queue, but it’s worth the wait. Green eggs and ham (chopped basil gives the eggs their colour) is the people’s choice, but the homemade granola is delicious. Restaurant Sat Bains (0115 986 6566) is the city’s stand-out venue and its modern British cuisine has earned it two Michelin stars. Ibérico World Tapas (0115 941 0410, ) has also impressed the red book, earning a Bib Gourmand. Try its bubbling hot tortilla, served with garlic and parsley butter foam, or the slowcooked lamb with spiced aubergine, yoghurt and mint. Cleanse your palate with the clean, delicate sea bass ceviche, laced with pomegranate and micro coriander. The Larder on Goosegate (0115 950 0111) looks down on the street and serves a British-with-a twist menu: think pearl barley risotto with Scottish girolle mushrooms, walnut pesto and shavings of old Winchester. Its locally brewed beers include award-winning Blue Monkey brewery’s BG Tips Loose Leaves, which is deliciously light and hoppy. End the night with a cocktail in the lounge bar at World Service (0115 847 5587, worldservicerestaurant.com).

Time running out?

Stroll round the Victorian Arboretum, a stone’s throw from the city centre, for a dose of peace and quiet.

Travel Information

Travel Information

Nottingham

Getting There

National Rail (nationalrail.co.uk) Trains run frequently between Nottingham and London St Pancras International or London Kings Cross. The journey takes about two hours.
National Express (nationalexpress.co.uk) It’s a three-hour drive from London Victoria Coach Station to Nottingham. Coaches leave every hour

Resources

Experience Nottinghamshire (visitnottinghamshire.co.uk) offers information on hotels, dining, history and attractions.