Why go?

Pronounced ‘wa-ha-ca’, this south-western Mexican city has preserved a strong indigenous culture though its fierce traditions. One of the most walkable cities in Latin America, streets are filled with colourful colonial houses: mustard-yellow exteriors mix with pea-green trimmings and Eighties eyeshadow- blue rooftops, while bougainvillea and jacaranda vines litter the streets below. Hidden behind the rainbow facades are buzzy mezcal bars, museums, galleries and courtyard restaurants that attract artists and expats seeking warm climes. After conquering the chaotic capital, this boho bello should be next in line.

What to do

Start by visiting the iconic Templo de Santa Domingo, a 16th-century church and monastery. Drenched in gold, it’s one of the finest examples of baroque architecture, with interior domes adorned with more than 100 intricate medallions. Oaxaca’s rich botanical history is best seen next door at Jardín Etnobotánico jardinoaxaca.mx which is home to 1ha of lush native flora and succulents. Access is only available by guided tour (Tuesdays, Thursday and Saturdays), but you can also catch a glimpse from the excellent Museo de las Culturas de Oaxaca. Modern art fans should try MACO museomaco.org for striking Mexican works. Surrounded by verdant valleys and mountainous forests with a necklace of tropical beaches to the south, there’s plenty to discover outside of the central Zócalo (plaza). A 25-minute taxi ride away lies Monte Albán, one of Mexico’s oldest archaeological sites. Dating back to 500BC, it was once home to 30,000 Zapotec people. Experts believe that only ten per cent of the site has been revealed, including flat-topped pyramids, ball courts and temples.

Where to stay

In spite of a surge in visitors, Oaxaca has remained immune to the advance of big hotel chains, favouring boutique boltholes owned by the eclectic locals. Once a private home, the 21 rooms of design-driven Azul Hotel hotelazuloaxaca.com feature art by local artists and a charming cactus-walled patio. Arguably the city’s most attractive hotel, Casa Oaxaca casaoaxaca.com.mx is an intimate guesthouse with seven rooms poised around a colonial courtyard filled with sweet-scented flowers. Book one of the suites for a private terrace – a prime spot for breakfast. Tucked away in the heart of Xochimilco, the city’s oldest neighbourhood, El Callejón hotelelcallejon.com is a sleek, four-room, architect-owned pick.

Where to eat and drink

Thanks to an ardent resistance and a ring of mountains acting as an impenetrable fort, Oaxaca escaped the 16th-century conquistadors. As such, its food is steeped in a rich indigenous culture that has been perfected over centuries. Championing Oaxacan cuisine, Alejandro Ruiz’s Casa Oaxaca casaoaxacaelrestaurante.com is one of the smartest tables in town. Grab a table on the terrace to savour stellar views and a banquet of seared tuna with mole and yucca lasagne. Outside of the centre, Itanoni 00 52 951 205 2282 was born out of husband-and-wife team Amado Ramirez Levya and Gabriela Fernández Orantes’ desire to preserve ancient heritage corn varieties. Feast on a menu spotlighting the ingredient (in tortillas, tacos and quesadillas) at their communal table. Newcomer Doba Yej 00 52 951 206 9293 comes from dynamic duo Paul Gonzalez and Rolano Santiago, who trained at Criollo, another stalwart offering. An informal affair, dining in the airy courtyard is akin to a picnic hosted by friends – think good vibes and big salads of heirloom tomatoes and cactus flowers. As night falls, the streets fill with people enjoying the Oaxaqueño tipple of choice. Mezcal is sold everywhere, usually with a gusano worm floating in the spirit. La Mezcaloteca mezcaloteca.com offers a well-curated selectio.

Time running out?

Learn how chocolate shaped Oaxaca’s history at a CACAO Cooperative artisan workshop. 00 52 951 102 6807

Travel Information

Travel Information

Currency is the Mexican peso (MXN). Time is 6 hours behind GMT. Flight time from London to Mexico City is 11h 45m, from where it’s a 1hr 10m flight to Oaxaca International Airport.

Getting There

Aeroméxico offers regular flights from London Heathrow to Oaxaca International with one stop. aeromexico.com

Avianca flies from Heathrow to Mexico City. avianca.com

Resources

Visit Mexico will provide you with a range of itinerary suggestions, details of reputable tour operators and an abundance of culinary inspiration. visitmexico.com