Why go?

Chances are that none of the people you know have been to Ohrid. And if they have, they probably want to keep it all to themselves. Blaze a trail and sample the local cuisine based on the freshest organic produce, enjoy the excellent Macedonian wine or bask in the sunshine on a stretch of pristine sand.

What to do

Ohrid’s old town has history, culture and scenery in abundance and is best seen on foot, as car traffic is very limited. Forget about time and explore the labyrinth of cobbled streets lined with outstanding Ottoman architecture, cafés, souvenir shops and a medieval fortress that towers above it all. The city is famous for its ‘pearls’ that are made from the scales of a little fish called plasica. Two local families – Talev and Filev – vigorously guard the secret of pearl making, but you can pop into one of their shops to check out the intricate, handmade pearl jewellery. From the jetty, follow a wooden walkway eastwards to marvel at St John’s church at Kaneo – perched atop a cliff, it is the most famous landmark of Ohrid. Nearby is the church of St Sophia, with its magnificent facade, frescoes and religious icon art. Not only is the picturesque old town a Unesco World Heritage site, but so is Lake Ohrid – one of the oldest (approximately four million years old) and deepest lakes in the world. Scuba-diving enthusiasts can enjoy the crystal clear waters or, if you’d rather stay dry, rest your legs on one of the bar beaches in town. Take a 1.5-hour boat ride across the lake to the monastery established by St Naum. There, surrounded by incense and choral music, put your ear to the saint’s tomb – they say you can still hear his heartbeat.

Where to stay

Villa Germanoff, 00 389 7026 1301, is located in the heart of Ohrid. Step inside the spacious, luxuriously decorated apartments to find Lake Ohrid nearly spilling into your room through the balcony doors. Nothing beats having a late Macedonian breakfast on the terrace, overlooking the red-tiled roofs. If it’s more of a classic hotel experience that you are after, Inex Gorica, 00 389 4627 7520, sits right on the lake shore a short taxi drive from the city. Take advantage of the private beach or play tennis with the snowcapped Galicica mountain range as a backdrop. Further down the eastern side of Lake Ohrid, very near the Albanian border, is the Sveti Naum Hotel, 00 389 4628 3080, hotelstnaum.com.mk, an entirely different proposition. Set within a caringly restored ninth-century monastery perched on a cliff right on the lake, there is a lot of religious history here – confirmed by the large groups of pilgrims – but ascetic it is not. The rooms are traditionally appointed yet offer every modern service a discerning traveller would need. Make sure to request a room with the view of the lake.

Where to eat and drink

Don’t be fooled by the tourist-trap pizzerias lining the main square – there are excellent cafés and restaurants in Ohrid. Start your day by popping into a bakery for a burek, a flaky pastry with a variety of fillings, of which spinach and white cheese is arguably the best. Try a cup of yogurt alongside, Macedonian style. the local speciality is fish soup from a variety hooked straight from Lake Ohrid’s azul waters; discover where they’re caught by taking a boat to the fishing village of Radožda on the west coast of the lake. Restaurant Dva Bisera, 00 389 4678 7118, is frequented by diplomats, who guard the secret of the fish and salad dishes. If you get hungry while exploring, right across from the Church of St Sophia is Restoran Sveta Sofija, 00 389 4626 7403, which serves local fish, grilled meats and over 90 Macedonian wines. Or unwind in a terrace with a shot of rakija (fruit brandy), a pint of Skopsko lager or a glass of excellent local wine, such as refreshing Stanushina rosé made from a grape only grown in the Vardar Valley.

Time running out?

Get a bird’s eye view of old town and lake by tandem paragliding from the hills. vertigo.org.mk

Travel Information

Travel Information

Currency is the Macedonian denar (MKd). Ohrid is an hour ahead of the UK (GMT +2). Travel time is about six hours.

Getting There

Wizz Air flies to Skopje from London Luton and from there Ohrid is about a two-and-a-half-hour drive. wizzair.com

British Airways flies to Tirana from London Gatwick in three hours and from there, Ohrid is approximately 160km, or a two-hour drive from the albanian capital. ba.com

Resources

Exploring Macedonia is found at exploringmacedonia.com, and is the site for Macedonian tourism. For specific info, visit ohrid.com.mk, which features Ohrid and the Lake Ohrid region.