Why go?

Approached from the sea, be it a dawn arrival by ferry from Italy or an afternoon catamaran from Dubrovnik, Split appears simply to be a modern city set against an age-old landscape. High-rise suburbs, built in the Seventies, are backed by rugged mountains. Only from the port do you discern the sturdy ancient walls of Diocletian’s Palace, giving on to the palm-lined promenade. Beyond the waterside cafés, stall-holders on the Pazar (Green Market) will be displaying local produce – think wild asparagus and cherries in spring; plump red tomatoes and fragrant peaches in summer; and mandarins and walnuts in autumn. From here, enter Split’s Unesco-listed Old Town through the Silver Gate into the palace. Stone-paved, pedestrian-only alleys centre on the Peristyle, the Roman arcaded courtyard marked by the cathedral bell-tower. West from here, through the Iron Gate, lies the Pjaca (main square), overlooked by the 15th-century Venetian town hall, its loggia graced by three pointed gothic arches.

Further west is Split’s peškarija, the covered fish market vending an impressive array of silver- scaled sea bass, bream, sardines, monkfish, scorpionfish, pink shrimps and glistening octopus. Beyond lies the hillside quarter of Varoš, made up of old stone cottages and stairs leading up to Marjan peninsula, planted with Aleppo pines. Below Marjan lies Matejuška harbour, where fishermen hang their nets to dry, and ACI sailing marina, where you can charter a yacht to explore the glorious Dalmatian islands.

What to do

THE HISTORY

Split was founded by Roman emperor Diocletian, who in 295 AD chose it as the sunny seaside site for his retirement home. While the imperial apartments lay on the south side of the palace, the north was occupied by a retinue of servants and soldiers. When Diocletian died in 312, he was laid to rest in an octagonal mausoleum, which now forms the body of Split Cathedral.

In the 7th century, people from nearby Salona took refuge within the palace to escape marauding tribes of Avars and Slavs. They began building homes here, and gradually the complex became a town. Later, under Venetian rule (1420-1797) came the Renaissance buildings you see today. Swelled by an influx of merchants, and refugees fleeing the Ottoman Turks, the city extended west of the palace.

Over the past decade, as many local families have moved from the Old Town to the suburbs, their former homes have been turned into rentals.

Where to stay

Vestibul Palace is the most luxurious Old Town pad. Located just off the Peristyle, with just 11 rooms, space is in short supply, so you won’t get extra facilities. If you’re looking for a beach or a spa, best to look beyond the walls. vestibulpalace.com

The classic choice is five-star Hotel Park. Dating from 1921 and set in gardens with a restaurant terrace and pool, it’s a ten-minute walk south-east of town. Being directly above Bačvice Beach, you can enjoy an early-morning swim before the crowds arrive. hotelpark-split.hr

Another fine option is Heritage Hotel Fermai in a Vienna Secession building, a five-minute walk north of the Old Town: slick interiors with retro furnishing, plus excellent breakfast. hotelfermai.com

Hip, informal and fun, Divota offers comfortable apartments with kitchenettes in stone cottages at various locations in Varoš. divota.hr

Where to eat and drink

While the Old Town does draw crowds, you’ll still find several great places to eat off the beaten track. Pop into Kruščić, behind the fish market, for a snack of artisan bread, pies and cakes. For a cheap light lunch, canteen-like Zlatna Ribica in nearby Ulica Kraj Svete Marije do platters of sprats, anchovies, squid and prawns, fried to order. Or try homely Villa Spiza in Ulica Petra Kružića, where the menu changes daily according to what the owner- chef finds at the market, and specialities include gregada (fish and potato casserole). Nearby, Uje use their own excellent olive oil to make mushroom risotto, oven-baked octopus with potatoes, and even ice cream. oilbar.hr

For dinner, rustic Konoba Fetivi near Matejuška fishing harbour serve authentic Dalmatian seafood, including dishes families eat at home that are rarely on menus, like octopus and chickpea stew or cuttlefish with broad beans. For something fancier, Bokeria in Ulica Domaldova give Dalmatian fare a creative twist – they add a splash of prošek sweet wine to their black risotto, and cook sea bass fillet with courgette, cauliflower purée and sun-dried tomatoes.

To escape the crowds, head for the airy roof terrace of Artičok, shaded by white awnings. After, round off the evening with a nightcap at Kavana Luxor, a favourite, atmospheric night-time meeting point on the Peristyle. articoksplit.eatbu.hr lvxor.hr

This Article was taken from the October 2024 issue of Food and Travel. To subscribe today, click here.

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