Why go?

A quick glance at the guidebook and you might think you’ve done Paris before. But it’s a city that always offers a new angle, and here we’ve some hidden gems and must-dos that will help you fall in love with this classic city all over again.

What to do

Although the Eiffel Tower and Arc de Triomphe are irresistible lures, if you want to get a sense of the city’s mechanics, head to one of its markets. In gritty Port de Clignancourt, a sprawling antiques market, known to locals simply as Les Puces (‘The Fleas’), you’ll find stalls selling everything from furniture and lighting to artworks and tin toy collections (marcheauxpucessaintouen.com). Heading back into town on the metro, hop off at Ledru-Rollin for the Marchéd’Aligre. It’s the Champs Elysées of fresh produce,with pyramids of apricots so buxom, you’ll be hard pressed not to pinch one (marchedaligre.free.fr). After the maelstrom of the markets, head up to the heights of Montmartre to reacquaint yourself with the city’s layout, before heading back down through the gardens to the pretty neighbourhood of Saint-Georges and the ‘bobo’ Rue des Martyrs for a spot of window shopping. For a concentrated dose of culture, it’s hard to pass up the magnificence of the Louvre or the Musée d’Orsay, but both the Delacroix and Rodin museums are also wonderful; particularly the sculpture garden of the latter (museedelacroix.fr, museerodin.fr). Catching a splash of live jazz at the bandstand in the Luxembourg Gardens is a quintessential way to cool off, as is taking a bottle of wine down to the banks of the Seine to savour the last of the fading sunlight.

Where to stay

In the sophisticated eighth arrondissement, the Hotel du Collectionneur is a whole-hearted homage to art deco. The theme is present throughout its 478 rooms and suites, some of which come with views of the planted central courtyard. Having recently signed up Michelin-starred chef Francois Gagnaire to revamp its Safran restaurant, it’s shaking off the shackles of the previous management to clinch top-dog status (00 33 1 58 36 67 00, hotelducollectionneur.com). Hôtel Vernet celebrated its 100th birthday this year with a top-to-toe modernisation. Its 50 rooms are understated and elegant, with Carrara marble sinks, brass taps and mosaic floors, while the glass dome that floods the restaurant with natural light was designed by Gustave Eiffel himself (00 33 1 44 31 98 00, hotelvernetparis.com). If it’s period detail you’re after, L’Hotel on the Rue des Beaux-Arts has hardly changed a stitch since Oscar Wilde spent his last days there. The 20 bijou rooms are outfitted with antique furniture, while the grotto-like pool in the basement is magical too (00 33 1 44 41 99 00, lhotel.com).

Where to eat and drink

Following the formula of its successful Big Apple-based forerunner, Buvette Gastrothèque on Rue Henry Monnier combines snappy New York service with a Parisian conviviality. It helps that the small and simple plates of food, like a roast chicken salad, lifted by a punchy vinaigrette, are carried out with the same conviction (00 33 1 44 63 41 71, paris.ilovebuvette.com). In the heart of Les Puces market, French designer Philippe Starck’s Ma Cocotte is styled to a typically eclectic finish with pieces sourced only from its ramshackle surroundings. It’s a fun and fanciful place to stop for a coffee and croissant in the morning, or a lunch or dinner of something more substantial such as a side of veal with mushrooms and cream (00 33 1 49 51 70 00, macocottelespuces.com). While the food at Les 110 de Taillevent is hard to fault, particularly the lobster ravioli in a basil and citrus butter sauce, its extensive wine list (110 bottles) is even harder (00 33 1 40 74 20 20, taillevent.com). Around the corner from the Aligre market, La Table d’Aligre dishes up fantastic seafood (00 33 1 43 07 84 88, tabledaligre.com) in a chic urban space.

Time running out?

For gourmets, La Grande Epicerie Paris in the basement of Le Bon Marché is a must. With over 30,000 gourmet products in stock, it’ll push your self-discipline to its limit.

Travel Information

Travel Information

Currency is the euro. Paris is one hour ahead of GMT. Travel time is less than two and a half hours from London St Pancras International to Paris Gare du Nord on the Eurostar.

Getting There

Eurostar (eurostar.com) operates frequent train services daily. British Airways (ba.com) flies direct from London Heathrow to Paris Charles de Gaulle, Friday to Wednesday.

Resources

Paris Info (parisinfo.com) is the official website of the visitors’ bureau and has a wealth of information for planning your trip.