Why go?

Capital of the Pyrénées-Orientales, the most southerly department of France, Perpignan also considers itself capital of Northern Catalonia. Palm trees, sun-dappled streets and brightly painted facades seem more redolent of Spain than France, while Catalan is still widely spoken and the red and gold flag flutters proudly from most buildings. On a clear day the distant peak of Mount Canigou, ‘the sacred mountain of the Catalans’, dominates the view. Often the hottest place on the French weather map, the city is particularly pretty in June, before the hordes of high summer and in time for the celebrated cherries of the region – the sublimely sweet first fruits are sent straight to the Elysé

What to do

Grab a bag of those cherries and potter through the winding streets of the old town. Start with Le Castillet, near Place de la Loge, the main square and heart of the old city. Built of red brick, this imposing gateway houses the Casa Païral 00 33 4 68 35 42 05, a museum of Catalan rural traditions. Climb to the top floor for a panoramic view of the ancestral plain of Roussillon stretching as far as the Pyrénées. A short walk away on Place Gambetta, St Jean Cathedral is a soaring Catalan gothic affair. The city’s most imposing building is the vast Palais des Rois de Majorque on Rue des Archers 00 33 4 68 34 96 26, France’s oldest royal palace. Occupied by consecutive Roussillon rulers, it mirrors the history of Perpignan: Catalan, Moorish, Aragonese and gothic. The palatial Musée d’Art Hyacinthe Rigaud 00 33 4 68 66 19 83, museerigaud.fr – to honour the royal portrait painter of the same name, who was born here – houses Perpignan’s art collection, with rooms devoted to works by locally connected artists including Picasso, Dufy, Maillol, Tàpies and Miró. Don’t miss the lively market on Place de la République for authentic local produce, from snails to apricots. Be sure to wander round the maze of funky narrow streets which surround it. Guided tours and bicycles to rent are available. For more information visit the Tourist Office on Place François Arago 00 33 4 68 66 30 30.

Where to stay

The best central option is the Hôtel de la Loge 00 33 4 68 34 41 02, hoteldelaloge.com with its Catalan decor, iron staircase and leafy courtyard. The Hôtel de France 00 33 4 68 84 80 35, hoteldefranceperpignan.fr is also centrally located, overlooking the canal next to Le Castillet, and has a delightfully nostalgic air thanks to antique furniture and an equally antique elevator. The Nyx 00 33 4 68 34 87 48, nyxhotel.fr is an intimate, modern choice found between the old town and the station. Ask for a room with a private terrace. Elegant retreat La Villa Duflot 00 33 4 68 56 67 67, villaduflot.com is the most glamorous choice thanks to rooms with balconies, a smart restaurant and a swimming pool surrounded by a park of olive trees.

Where to eat and drink

Discover a distinctly Catalan flavour: think earthy meat dishes, aïoli, anchovies, olive oil and snails. Stay around the old town for most of the action. Place Arago has two cafés with palm-fronded terraces, the art deco Café Vienne 0033468348000, and brasserie L’Arago 0033468518196, which offers good-value plats du jours such as garlic chicken with mash. Bistro Le Saint Jean 00 33 4 68 51 22 25, lesaintjean.com is right next to the cathedral. Try the Catalan plate of Serrano ham, manchego, chorizo, tapenade and tomato bread. Casa Sansa 00 33 4 68 50 48 01, a favourite with locals, is in a vaulted bakery crammed with model boats and mementos. Try classics such as the magret de canard in a sauce of Banyuls, a sweet wine. Garianne 00 33 4 68 67 07 44 is nearer to the grand new station (Salvador Dalí called it the centre of the universe). Australian chef Garry Wilson brings an Asiatic twist to the tasting menu – think hake with spiced hollandaise, and raw bonito with horseradish.

Time running out?

Take a 40-minute tour on the dinky road train that sets off from outside Le Castillet.

Travel Information

Travel Information

Currency is the euro. Time is 2 hours ahead of GMT. Flight time to Perpignan is 2 hours; train journey time is around 9 hours.

Getting There

Eurostar trains depart regularly from Kings Cross to Gare du Nord. Change in Paris for Gare du Lyon. eurostar.com

Ryanair has regular flights direct to Perpignan, April to October, from London Stansted and Birmingham. ryanair.com Alternatively, connect by train from Carcassonne, Béziers or Girona.

Resources

Perpignan Tourist Office has lots of information to help you make the most out of your visit. perpignantourisme.com