Why go?

It’s only 47km long, but Slovenia’s coast is darn pretty. Historic Piran is the jewel in a crown of a collection of waterside destinations, all boasting sun, sparkling sea and – this being Istria – top food and wine from seafood-laden pastas to robust refosk reds.

What to do

Piran occupies its own peninsula and people have been living here since before the Romans. A wander around the current warren of vaulted passageways reveals a street layout that is more medieval, dating back to the 12th-century and the Venetian empire. The colourful houses themselves, along with the expansive Tartini Square – named after the composer who was born here – are distinctly Austro-Hungarian. Look out though for the Venetian treasure that is the red, ornate building at the square’s edge. At Punta, the ‘tip’ of the peninsula that is home to a lighthouse and the Church of St Clement tower, the sea almost surrounds you. But the best views are from the hill on which St George’s cathedral is perched. Its belltower joins other superb sights such as a Minorite monastery and the remnants of an original fortification wall. If Piran is the Slovenian coast’s historic jewel, then Portoroz, five minutes’ drive away, is its answer to Monte Carlo. The Austro-Hungarians used to come here for the thermal waters and socialising – these days there is a casino, a small beach, and a sprinkling of seaside glitz in the form of yachts and shopping. You can’t visit the coast without checking out the Secovlje salt pans, 15 minutes from Piran’s centre (kpss.si). Harvesting the same way for 700 years, the salt workers are particularly busy in August. Last year a sleek outdoor eco-spa opened on-site, Lepa Vida (thalasso- lepavida.si), with treatments featuring the product. Next, join a boat trip to view small eco fish farm Fonda (fonda.si), which rears top- quality bass (it’s worth it for the chance to get out onto the water!), or spend an afternoon exploring Izola, a historic town with fewer tourists and plenty of shops, cafés and food festivals. Just don’t leave without hitting some of the local wine cellars. Whites from malvasia and reds from refosk are on offer at family-run operations around Piran, as is olive oil (everyone makes their own here) and cured hams and cheeses. Korenika & Moskon (korenikamoskon. si) is one of the largest yet still charmingly boutique.

Where to stay

The steel-blue sea views from Hotel Piran (00 386 5 66 67 100, hotel-piran.si), on the south-facing strip of the peninsula, are uninterrupted. Or, invoke the glitz of the Austro- Hungarian era at the restored, iconic Kempinski Palace Portoroz (00 386 5692 7000, kempinski.com), overlooking Portoroz waterfront. It has some serious history – Franz Ferdinand even stayed here on the way to his date with fate in Sarajevo. These days the chiselled exterior contains a pool, spa and fine-dining restaurant.

Where to eat and drink

In Istria, the holy trinity of olive oil, pasta and fish rules – particularly the latter. Get stuck in on Piran’s waterfront in traditional eatery Gostilna Pri Mari (00 386 5673 4735, primaripiran.com). Rustic, generous plates of homemade gnocchi with langoustines or octopus salad roll out from the kitchen. The cosy Sonja, in Izola, is also an excellent choice for an aquatic-based lunch – try the moreish spicy squid with polenta or seafood soup. Rizibizi (00 386 5 99 35 320, rizibizi.si), halfway between Piran and Portoroz, is a more refined dining option, boasting views of the coast from on high – tuck into homemade Istrian truffle trofie pasta and explore the strong wine offering. In the heart of the salt pans, Restaurant Fioret is a good bet for lunch – the menu changes daily but expect cod pâté, seafood risotto and local bass cooked on a brick of sea salt.

Time running out?

Stock up on local wines and olive oils in Izola at 1001 Vino (00 386 31 738 947). The owner is extremely knowledgeable about Primorska region wines and offers tastings.

Travel Information

Travel Information

Currency is the euro. Piran is one hour ahead of GMT, and the total travel time is about two and a half hours. The cost to carbon offset is £2.09 (go to climatecare.org).

Getting There

Wizz Air (wizzair.com) flies from London Luton to Ljubljana, from which Piran is about a one and a half hour drive.

Ryanair (ryanair.com) flies from London Stansted to Trieste in Italy, from which Piran is about a 45-minute drive.

Resources

Slovenian tourist board (slovenia.info) and Portoroz and Piran tourist board (portoroz.si) are excellent sources of information when planning your trip.