Why go?

On one side you’ve got the beautiful villages of South Hams, on the other you’ve got all the delights of Devon’s neighbouring county, Cornwall. To the north is the spectacular wilderness of Dartmoor and to the south there’s the English Channel. But Plymouth isn’t just a great jumping-off spot. It’s awash with history, from Mayflower and those adventurous Pilgrim Fathers to famous maritime names such as Sir Francis Drake. Today, it’s been undergoing considerable regeneration. Navy barracks have become swish waterfront complexes, big name chefs have started to arrive in town and then there’s that gin!

What to do

Just like the Mayflower’s passengers, it’s fitting that you start your Plymouth journey at the Barbican. The city centre took more than a few hits during the Second World War, but the cobbled streets of this charming port-side district got off almost unscathed. Visit the place from which that famous ship set sail, discover its story and that of Plymouth at the Mayflower Museum (01752 306330), before taking a stroll down to the numerous antique and curiosity shops where you’ll find anything from a life-sized Dalek to a stuffed tiger (no idea if it’s real!). Once your mind has been blown by all that, you’ll need a drink and for that there’s Plymouth Gin (plymouthgin.com). On their quite brilliant master distillers’ tour you’ll taste test various gins, learn the brand’s history and then make your own using their mini distiller stations. Finish off with a G&T at their slick bar upstairs. On the other side of Sutton Harbour you’ll find the National Marine Aquarium (nationalaquarium.co.uk), the biggest in Europe. Its 54 tanks are supplied with 6 million litres of water, and are home to about 6,000 fish (including invertebrates). The Barbican is a launchpad for many aquatic adventures, like those from Plymouth Boat Trips (plymouthboattrips.co.uk), which offers naval harbour cruises, trips to nearby villages and bays, and catch-and-cook trips. The expert crews will help you catch your fish supper, then have it beautifully cooked at The Boathouse Cafe (theboathousecafe.co.uk) back on dry land.

Where to stay

A stone’s throw from the Barbican, the Duke of Cornwall Hotel has been in business over 150 years and boasts an impressive gothic exterior (01752 275850, dukeofcornwall.co.uk). The city has Dartmoor on its doorstep, so it would be a shame not to spend at least a night or two at the Moorland Garden Hotel (01822 852245, moorlandgardenhotel.co.uk), surrounded by those famed moorlands. With the pretty Yelverton Golf Club as a neighbour, a chef serving the best local produce and countless walks, it’s what England’s green and pleasant land is all about. Back in the city itself, you can stay at the Grade II-listed Invicta Hotel (01752 664997, invictahotel.co.uk), which has comfortable three-star rooms, sea views and a location right on the breezy Plymouth Hoe park. Keep an eye out for the new Watergate Bay Hotel, a multi-million-pound project expected to open next year at Royal William Yard, a former Royal Navy supplies depot.

Where to eat and drink

In addition to The Boathouse Cafe (see above), if you want a taste of Devon, Mitch Tonks’ Rockfish (01752 255974, therockfish.co.uk) has to be first port of call. Dressed crab or prawn cocktail starters are crazy good, followed by grilled, breaded or battered local fish (such as monkfish, brill and plaice) or just go for a fresh seafood roll (South Devon crab gets our vote). You can’t lose. Royal William Yard dates to 1826 and is the jewel in modern Plymouth’s crown, a waterfront location carefully sculpted into a home for restaurants, bars and shops. River Cottage has made it their home (01752 252702, rivercottage.net) and calling it a ‘canteen’ doesn’t do the food justice. A three-course meal of curried Cornish mussels, overnight cooked beef brisket and lime, honey and vanilla yoghurt cheesecake is simply delicious.

Time running out?

Head for Plymouth Hoe, where Drake spotted the Spanish Armada, for some of the best sea views.

Travel Information

Travel Information

Getting There

First Great Western (firstgreatwestern.co.uk) offer frequent trains between London Paddington and Plymouth, with Pullman dining on selected services (excluding weekends and public holidays). Fastest journey time is just over 3hrs.
National Express (nationalexpress.co.uk) coaches run from London Victoria. The fastest journey time is just over 5hrs.

Resources

Visit Plymouth (visitplymouth.co.uk) offers plenty of advice on events, attractions and what to see and do in the city.