Why go?

Most travellers to Croatia speed off towards the islands of Krk, Cres, Rab or Lošinj, or to Opatjia’s glittering seaside riviera. Rijeka is often forgotten in the mix, which is a shame because not only is the city an ideal jumping-off point for exploring the region, it is a destination in its own right. What’s more, even in the peak of high season, tourists are relatively scarce. Located at the point where the Adriatic Sea penetrates Europe furthest inland, Rijeka has been a maritime city ever since Venetian times. The city’s main claim to fame is that it is the birthplace of the torpedo, but come here to admire the Habsburg architecture, a clutch of interesting museums, and some of the most seasonally focused food you can find on the Croatian coast.

What to do

Rijeka’s downtown, formed of huddles of orange-roofed buildings and the odd high-rise, is small, and a walking tour is easily completed in an hour or two. An old Roman arch is a particular highlight: the ruins are of the ancient gateway to a fort’s command area. To the north, a city museum and maritime history museum are situated by the Park Nikole Hosta. St Vitus Church is the symbol of Rijeka; construction began in the 1600s and took a century to complete. Nearby, at the Church of St Mary’s Assumption, you’ll find Rijeka’s own ‘leaning tower’ – it slants a full 40cm towards the church. Join the flocks of Rijekans strutting up and down the Korzo, the main shopping street. Savour a gelato, admire the strikingly yellow city clock tower, or sip a coffee in an outdoor café – this is where the city’s best people-watching takes place, as do any major festivals or events. Wander down to the covered market, where local farmers sell their fruit, and fishermen their catch. Nearby the waters of the harbour are filled with bobbing fishing boats and birds; in summer there are sailing regattas. Scale the steps to Trsat, a castle complex overlooking the city. It’s an ideal place for watching the sun set. Occupied since Roman times as a fortress and vantage point, the restored structure neighbours a sanctuary. This remarkable church houses a treasure trove of testament gifts from thousands of pilgrims, including Habsburg rulers and Titanic survivors

Where to stay

Grand Hotel Bonavia (00 385 51 35 71 00, bonavia.hr) is one of the city’s best hotels, with terraces and views from some rooms stretching out over the blue waters of the harbour. Hotel Jadran (00 385 51 21 66 00, jadranhoteli.hr) is a seaside hotel in the Pecine neighbourhood, just south of the centre.

Where to eat and drink

Rijekans pride themselves on their seasonal eating – start chatting with any local about food, and it’s hard to get them to stop. You must visit a traditional konoba (tavern) typical of the Croatian coast; there are many of these eateries throughout the city, but try Volta 15 (00 385 51 33 08 06). The menu here changes throughout the seasons and often by the day. Their squid ink and prawn risotto (local Kvarner prawns are much sought after, and very sweet) are sublime; grilled fish and tender octopus dishes are skilfully prepared. Municipium (00 385 51 21 30 00) is considered one of the city’s best places to sample traditional Croatian meat and fish dishes. In the pretty hillside village of Kastav, a short drive or bus ride from the city centre, you’ll not only get a great view over the harbour, but one of the region’s finest restaurants and boutique hotels – Kukuriku (00 385 51 691 519, kukuriku.hr). Sit in Lokvina Square, into which the restaurant spills, and enjoy local amphora-aged malvasia, and a tasting menu of various locally procured delights including marinated mullet and mackerel, or puff pastry stuffed with cheese and truffle shavings. The experience is delightful and should be part of any itinerary, and if you wish to draw it out longer you can even stay the night in one of the 15 luxurious guest rooms.

Time running out?

During the warmer months concerts are held at the atmospheric Hartera Paper Factory on the waterside.

Travel Information

Travel Information

Currency is the Croatian kuna (HRK). Rijeka is one hour ahead of GMT, and is a two-hour flight from London.

Getting There

Ryanair (ryanair.com) flies regularly from London Stansted to Rijeka.
Croatia Airlines (croatiaairlines.com) flies from London Heathrow and Gatwick to Zagreb, which is a one-hour-and-a half drive to Rijeka.

Resources

The Croatian National Tourist Board (croatia.hr) and the Rijeka Tourist Board (tzrijeka.hr) have sightseeing information