Why go?

This compact South Hams town has all the nostalgia of traditional seaside holidays teamed with a healthy dash of cosmopolitan flair. Although it has its fair share of high-profile visitors – Led Zeppelin, Mary Berry and former England rugby coach Sir Clive Woodward to name a few – understatement is the fashion, unlike less demure resorts in neighbouring Cornwall. Tanned yachties pad down Fore Street in bare feet, smart women sip coffee and order up cream teas outside cafés and Mini Boden-clad children congregate at Cranch’s sweet shop before going crabbing on the waterfront. Built slightly inland to protect it from piracy, the town meanders along the Salcombe Estuary and beautiful sandy coves can be reached by a rickety ferry. From 30 July, the annual week-long regatta brings tourists, boat races, sandcastle-building competitions and beach parties.

What to do

The coast is truly remarkable in the morning, so get up early and enjoy the walk to Bolt Head. The 6km clifftop path snakes through heathland speckled with sea campion and scented by gorse and the jagged red cliffs create some of the most dramatic scenery on the South West Coast Path. Salcombe is the sailing capital of Devon and it even has a signature vessel, the Salcombe Yawl. Learn to sail one of these wooden boats (which are still handmade in town) and explore the coast with a local fisherman 01548 561 619, salcombeinformation.co.uk. Visit Overbeck’s nationaltrust.org.uk, a fascinating house with a semi-tropical garden that once belonged to eccentric scientist Otto Overbeck. Catch the ferry across the river to East Portlemouth beach but be sure to return in time to explore the many modish boutiques. Bibi & Mac bibiandmac.co.uk on Fore Street sells a selection of designer labels, while Hope Cove Gallery hopecovegallery.com on Island Street showcases home-grown painting talent.

Where to stay

Until recently, most people chose to rent petite townhouses from companies such as Toad Hall Cottages 01548 202 020, toadhallcottages.co.uk as hotels were a bit tired. However, in the past few years three have received the Farrow & Ball treatment and emerged as stylish boltholes. South Sands 01548 845 900, southsands.com is a boutique option on a sheltered beach with just 22 bedrooms. We recommend the J Class room, which has twin claw-foot bathtubs in a bay window and a large private balcony. On a hill overlooking the estuary, Salcombe Harbour Hotel 01548 844 444, salcombeharbourhotel.co.uk is the most luxurious option. Binoculars and gin and tonic come as standard and many of the 50 rooms have vintage touches such as art deco dressing tables. If you’re looking for a little pampering, the spa has a beautiful pool and offers treatments inspired by the sea, including hot shell massages and salt scrubs. Nostalgically named Sunny Cliff Hotel & Apartments 01548 842 207, sunnycliff.co.uk is a collection of seven serviced suites and studios. Good value and cheerful, they’re ideal for families.

Where to eat and drink

The husband-and-wife team behind The Crab Factory on Fish Quay have been producing hand-picked crabmeat since 1995 and they have now opened an informal restaurant where you can try the best of their catch. Eating shellfish on The Crab Shed’s 01548 844 280, crabshed.com waterfront terrace is the closest you can get to the sea without getting wet. Continuing the shellfish theme, The Jetty 01548 844 444, salcombeharbourhotel.co.uk has an entire crustacean menu and an elegant dining room that works well for an occasion. The Winking Prawn 01548 842 326, winkingprawngroup.co.uk is a fantastic choice for a family meal. It specialises in enormous sandwiches and is practically on North Sands beach, so little ones can explore the rock pools while they wait. Make sure to finish with a cannonball-sized scoop of Salcombe Dairy ice cream.

Time running out?

Agatha Christie’s holiday home, Greenway, is a lush haven just 19km from Salcombe. nationaltrust.org.uk

Travel Information

Travel Information

Getting There

Great Western Rail has regular services from London Paddington to Totnes, which is a 40-minute drive from Salcombe. Be sure to book a taxi in advance in high season. gwr.com

National Express has a service once a day from London Victoria Coach Station to Totnes from £29 return. Journey
time is six hours. Local buses can be taken to Salcombe. nationalexpress.com

Resources

Salcombe Tourist Information is the local tourist board’s online resource and is packed full of ideas. salcombeinformation.co.uk