Salisbury - England
Charming medieval architecture, Wiltshire ham and idyllic countryside nearby all make this market city – with its soaring cathedral – worthy of a pilgrimage, says Alex Allen.
Travel Time 1hrs 30minCharming medieval architecture, Wiltshire ham and idyllic countryside nearby all make this market city – with its soaring cathedral – worthy of a pilgrimage, says Alex Allen.
Travel Time 1hrs 30minThis year is the 800th anniversary of Magna Carta, and Salisbury Cathedral has unveiled a new exhibition all about the famous document. Of the four original charters remaining, Salisbury’s is by far the best preserved. It’s a must see.
Beyond the tolkein-esque interior of the octagonal Chapter House, where Magna Carta is displayed, Salisbury Cathedral, salisburycathedral.org.uk, has plenty more to offer. The tallest spire in the UK deserves to be seen first hand – take a tour of this vertigo-inducing feat of medieval engineering. It also boasts the country’s largest cathedral close, a 32ha area of encircled gardens and other buildings. These are also worth visiting if you have time. Mompesson House is an immaculately preserved 18th-century Queen Anne townhouse, national trust.org.uk, complete with all the period trimmings and a stunning walled garden. The Rifles Museum, thewardrobe.org.uk, houses a collection of war memorabilia relating to the history of the Infantry Regiments of Berkshire and Wiltshire. and the award-winning Salisbury Museum’s archives, salisburymuseum.org.uk, are about the history, archeology and art of local areas including Old Sarum (an Iron Age hill fort thought to be the original site of modern-day Salisbury), Stonehenge and medieval Salisbury. However, if you want to get up closer, you can hop on the daily tour bus, thestonehengetour.info, which will pick you up from the railway station and drop you within touching distance of both Stonehenge – just 14km away – and old Sarum. on Tuesdays and Saturdays, the central Market Place is a hive of activity as the Charter Market goes into full swing. With over 100 stalls, it is one of the largest open-air affairs in the south of England, though it’s the farmers’ market stalls, signified by blue and white awnings, that are the real draw.
The Pembroke Arms Hotel, 01722 743328, pembrokearms.co.uk, is a small, family-run boutique hotel and restaurant on the grounds of the 5,700ha Wilton House estate. The nine rooms are richly decorated with floral wallpapers, generously blanketed beds and antique-style furniture. In the restaurant, a gastropub menu offers well-executed crowd pleasers like grilled cod with a cheesy herb crust, and a refreshing semifreddo lemon sherbet mousse cake. Although Howard’s House Hotel, 01722 716392, howardshousehotel.co.uk, is a little way out of town, it’s worth the extra effort. Set within earshot of a stream in the pretty village of teffont evias, this 17th-century stone building houses ten comfortable rooms, and a restaurant headed by acclaimed chef Nick Wentworth. also on the outskirts of Salisbury, Brook House, 01722 718242, is a two-bedroom B&B in a Georgian cottage. The breakfasts, made with local produce, are best enjoyed on the river terrace.
Charter 1227, 01722 333118, charter1227.co.uk, run by chef Danny Bozic, occupies prime real estate in Salisbury’s centre. British and european influences come together in an elegant menu of dishes such as guinea fowl with sweet potato fondant, smoked bacon, corn purée and mushroom velouté, or goat’s cheese with honey panko crust, pickled beetroot and blackberry essence. Situated in a redbrick victorian mill, fisherton Mill, 01722 500200, fishertonmill.co.uk, is a cute combination of café and art gallery. While the café offers a daily changing menu of sandwiches, cakes and soups, the gallery showcases the work of local and up-and-coming artists. And if you need a quick food stop while exploring, Henderson’s artisan Bakery and Café, 01722 341717, can keep you satisfied with a still-warm hot cross bun or slice of rhubarb tart and a coffee.
With chandeliers and topiary hedges to rival Downton Abbey, 16th-century Wilton House, wiltonhouse.co.uk, is perfect for a stroll outdoors and is so huge you could easily find yourself getting lost in its endless wings. Be sure to admire the paintings by the likes of Rembrandt and Pieter Brueghel.
National Express runs a regular service from London Victoria to Salisbury, taking 3 hours. nationalexpress.com
South West Trains will get you to Salisbury from London Waterloo in 1 hour 30 minutes. southwesttrains.com
Visit Wiltshire the tourist board has detailed information travel, what to see and events, with ideas for exploring the city and wider county. visitwiltshire.co.uk
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