Why go?

While Argentina’s north-western Salta Province beguiles visitors with its wild scenery, high-altitude vineyards and Andean traditions, its laid-back capital, the city of Salta, has only recently emerged on the tourist map. Peppered with cultural institutions and colonial relics dating back to the Incas, from oil paintings and textiles to mummies, Salta’s compact centre is ideal for exploring on foot. Soak up the region’s landscape and the wine its unique terroir is famous for: torrontés – a light, sweet white that thrives in the dry, windswept climate. Celebrated during February and March, the Fiesta Nacional de la Vendimia (National Grape Harvest Festival), where you can take part in the harvest celebrations, is a wonderful reason to visit right now.

What to do

The Museum of High Mountain Archaeology 00 54 387 437 0592, maam.gob.ar focuses on the 1999 discovery of three Inca mummies on the summit of Llullaillaco, a stratovolcano straddling the Argentina-Chile border. Uptown, it’s easy to lose an hour browsing the displays of indigenous artefacts at Museo Pajcha 00 54 387 422 9417, museopajchasalta.com.ar. Neoclassical architectural highlights include Salta’s candy-pink cathedral, which dominates Plaza 9 de Julio, the city’s leafy main square, and the nearby Church of San Francisco, with its 53m belfry. To stretch your legs, climb the 1,000 steps (or take the gondola from San Martín Park for £6 ) up to San Bernardo Hill, just east of the centre, for fine views cerrosanbernardo.todowebsalta.com.ar. For shoppers, Mercado Artesanal 00 54 387 434 2808, mercadoartesanal.todowebsalta.com.ar remains the best place in town to pick up authentic textiles. To access the wineries of Cafayate and beyond, hire a car for a day or two or arrange a tour through local operators such as Say Hueque 00 54 115 258 8740, sayhueque.com or Socompa 00 54 387 431 5974, socompa.com

Where to stay

Guests are welcomed to Legado Mítico 00 54 387 422 8786, legadomitico.com an 11-room boutique hotel in an elegantly restored colonial townhouse, with a glass of wine in its cosy reading room. A few blocks north, the wine-themed Delvino Boutique Hotel 00 54 387 432 0092, delvinoboutiquehotel.site has a lovely garden pool and an atmospheric in-house wine bar. A ten-minute drive from the airport, the citrus-tree scented Finca Valentina 00 54 9 387 592 0099, finca-valentina.com has been lovingly transformed from a heritage cottage into a luxurious country-style hotel. Next door, House of Jasmines 00 54 387 497 2005, houseofjasmines.com an estancia once owned by actor Robert Duvall, is now an opulent Relais & Châteaux hotel and spa.

Where to eat and drink

Salteño cuisine has deep roots in Andean culture, and tradition guides every mouthful. Locals believe the empanada was invented in Salta, and while these stuffed baked pastries are ubiquitous, the best place to try them is El Patio de la Empanada 00 54 387 431 4484 where a handful of stalls serve up their own versions for around 35p apiece, stuffed to the gunnels with slow-cooked beef and offal cuts. To try a wider range of local dishes including locro, a hearty Andean stew, Doñ a Salta 00 54 387 432 1921 is a good bet, while local favourite Viejo Jack 00 54 387 439 2802 on the fringes of the city is the place to sample an Argentinian grilled steak. Cocina Ramirez! 00 54 387 471 0411 is a great go-to for inventive salads, while those with a sweet tooth should not miss the dulce de leche ice cream at gelateria Fili Helados. As evening falls, Salteños congregate at cafés around the main square to unwind before heading to a vibrant peña (folk concert) such as La Casona del Molino. Or simply head to hip craft beer haunt, Bier Cervecería Artesanal 00 54 387 556 3145.

Time running out?

Learn the secret to perfecting a traditional Salteño empanada by signing up for a cooking class at House of Jasmines. 00 54 387 497 2005, houseofjasmines.com

Travel Information

Travel Information

Currency is the peso. Time is three hours behind GMT. Flight time to Buenos Aires is 14 hours, and Buenos Aires to Salta, around two hours. The cost to carbon-offset is £26.11. climatecare.org

Getting There

British Airways flies from Heathrow to Buenos Aires. ba.com

Aerolíneas Argentinas flies on from Buenos Aires Ministro Pistarini International to Salta. aerolineas.com.ar

Resources

Turismo Salta is the regional tourism office and provides itinerary ideas and practical advice for planning your trip. turismo.salta.gov.ar