Why go?

Rum, rhythm and revolution – these three Rs sum up Santiago de Cuba perfectly. Wedged between the formidable Sierra Maestra mountains and the Caribbean Sea, it offers Cuban culture at its most concentrated and exhilarating. Fidel Castro played in the winding streets as a child and it was here that the revolution broke, which froze the country in a fascinating time warp. Economic sanctions were relaxed last year and with the travel ban on US citizens expected to be lifted, time is running out to experience this city as it has been for over half a century.

What to do

Cespedes Park sits at the heart of the old town and played a huge part in world history when crowds gathered here to listen to Castro make his victory speech from the balcony of city hall in 1959. On the opposite side of the square is the wedding- cake cathedral built in the 19th century. Sit on a wrought-iron bench and soak up the atmosphere; dominoes click in every shady corner, buskers strum guitars while children play pelota (baseball) with sticks. Just off the square you’ll find Casa de Diego Velázquez 00 53 2265 2652 the oldest house in Cuba. Despite its 500 years, it is in remarkable condition and is filled with interesting antiques. Take a chessboard and set up a game in the shade on the Padre Pico steps, then stroll around the Tivoli district (dodging the Fifties Buicks) where the candy-coloured buildings have a beguiling air of faded grandeur. Museo de la Lucha Clandestina 00 53 2262 4689 tells the bloody story of the struggle against President Batista and is housed in a butter-coloured colonial mansion with views down to the harbour. Casa de la Trova is the grande dame of Cuban music halls, while Casa de las Tradiciones is funky and wild.

Where to stay

Cuban hotels are state-owned and are somewhat lacking in Western luxury. However, they make up for it with heaps of historic interest. Hotel Casa Granda 00 53 2265 3021 has graced one side of Cespedes Park for more than 100 years and you won’t do better if you’re looking for a combination of comfort, location and atmosphere. Sip a spearmint mojito on the shady terrace where novelist Graham Greene found inspiration. Hostal San Basilio 00 53 2265 1702 is an intimate, art deco address with eight bedrooms. Its reception is filled with tropical houseplants and softly lit by sunlight streaming through stained-glass windows. Private homestays, known as casas particulares, are a fantastic way to get a taste of local life and there are plenty to choose from. Casa Hostal Raul & Kathy 00 53 22 624472, bbinnvinales.com is centrally located on Heredia Street and has a sunny terrace.

Where to eat and drink

Food rationing has been in place for 52 years and people have become so adept at supplementing their government goods that you wont notice the constraints. Government-run restaurants tend to be pretty bland; if you want to taste fiery Cuban cuisine, paladares (homes licensed to serve food for up to 12 people) are the best option. Menus may include the likes of congris (black beans and rice); garbanzo (chickpea casserole); and chicken or lamb, salsa and Boniato sweet potato chips in lime and garlic. Venues vary from crumbling colonial mansions to flats whose decor seems frozen in the Fifties. Salon Tropical 00 53 2264 1161 is one of the best and has excellent views, but make sure you book ahead as they do a roaring trade. Las Gallegas 00 53 2262 4700 has wonderful retro furniture. There is far more choice when it comes to bars. La Maison Avenue Manduley esq 1ra 52 in the gardens of a colonial mansion serves up heady Cuban cocktails and sizzling cabaret acts.

Time running out?

With its collection of rare orchids and ferns, the Jardín de los Helechos is an oasis of calm in the city.

Travel Information

Travel Information

Currency is the Cuban peso but visitors use Cuban convertible peso. Time is 5 hours behind the UK. Journey time is 14.5 hours. The cost to carbon-offset is £15.43, visit climatecare.org

Getting There

Virgin Atlantic flies from London to Havana. virginatlantic.com

Cubana runs a daily route from Havana to Santiago de Cuba, and from Madrid on Tuesdays and Saturdays. cubana.cu

Resources

Cuba Tourist Board is packed with inspiration and practical advice for visiting the country. travel2cuba.co.uk