Why go?

While the rest of us are moaning about recession, the home of Samsung and Hyundai is booming. Asians have been flocking to Seoul in increasing numbers over the past five years to shop, eat and sight-see. Now that PSY has made Gangnam Style world famous, what better time for us to catch up? The South Korean capital is more user-friendly, sophisticated, designconscious and multicultural than ever before. Seoulites work hard and play hard, so tap into the city’s energy and recharge.

What to do

For a city mostly rebuilt after the Korean War with futuristic leanings, Seoul has surprisingly deep layers of history. Art lovers can admire ancient celadon, bronze buddhas and delicate gold crowns at the National Museum (museum.go.kr) or the centre of Korean Zen Buddhism at the Jogyesa temple. The 15th-century, Unesco-recognised Changdeokhung Palace Complex, seat of the Joseon Dynasty, is obligatory if history is your thing. Beneath Jungang Market at Seoul Art Space (geumcheon.blogspot.com), watch contemporary artists make umbrellas out of noodle packets or build robots. The grand old Seoul Station is now an arts centre, and there’s the interactive Trick Eye Museum in studenty Hongdae. Love busy markets? At Namdaemun you’ll find fashion, ginseng and mountain gear; Dongdaemun flea market is open until dawn; haggle for gadgets at Yongsan Electronics Market. Seoul can be manic, so seek out its oases of calm. The Chonggyecheon stream snakes through downtown close to several palaces where you can stroll through serene, leafy gardens, while at the impressive Jongmyo Shrine you’ll find hundreds of old men playing noisy games of chess. For pure kitsch, watch Banpo Bridge turn into a musical ‘rainbow fountain’ at dusk, then head to Su Noraebang in Hongdae to see how the Koreans do karaoke.

Where to stay

Serious pampering can be had at the central Lotte Hotel (00 822 771 1000, lottehotelseoul.com) while Banyan Tree (00 822 2250 8000, banyantree.com) boasts in-room relaxation pools with panoramic views. The Seoul Palace Hotel (00 822 532 5000, starwoodhotels.com) is walking distance from the French quarter. With its bright colours and funky art, the IP Boutique Hotel (ipboutiquehotel.com) is the vision of modern Seoul. For a taste of the historic city, stay in a restored traditional wooden house, Rakkojae (00 822 742 3410), where you can participate in a tea ceremony or luxuriate in one of Korea’s most civilised customs – a jjimjilbang or spa with sauna, herbal baths and massage.

Where to eat and drink

Top chefs returning to Korea after stints in Manhattan or Paris are creating traditional cuisine with a fresh twist. The tasting menus at Jung Sik Dang in Apgujeong (00 822 517 4654, jungsik.kr) include crispy snapper and seaurchin bibimbap; YongSuSan (00 822 546 06478, yongsusan.co.kr) serves royal court food (hanjeongsik), including up to nine courses of delicacies. In Gangnam, Byeokje Galbi (00 822 415 5522) has organic beef barbecue and GaeHwaOk (00 822 549 1459) has pork from Jeju Island black pigs. Don’t want meat or spice? Korean Buddhist food is fashionable – try wild mountain vegetables or steamed lotus root at Baru Gongyang (00 822 2031 2081) near Jogye Temple. Keep moving and graze from street stalls in alleyways – don’t miss jeon, a cross between an omelette and a pancake, or kimbap, Korean snack sushi popular in the shopping district, Myeongdong. For fresh fish, head to Noryangjin fish market where oysters are £3 a dozen. The drink of choice is Korean rice wine – or try makgeolli cocktails at Chez Maak (00 822 515 7077) in Gangnam. Overwhelmed? Banpo-dong’s French quarter (Seorae Village) has bakeries, cafés and the best burgers in town at Brooklyn The Burger Joint (00 822 533 7180).

Time running out?

Insa-dong in the old heart of town is a visitors’ favourite, great for shopping for traditional gifts, crafts and antiques – and ducking into charming tea houses. Eat dumpling stew cooked at your table with noodles and greens at Big Mandu House.

Travel Information

Travel Information

Currency is the Korean won. Seoul is nine hours ahead of GMT and is about 11 hours’ travel time from London.

Getting There

Korean Air (koreanair.com) flies from London Heathrow and London Gatwick to Seoul daily.
British Airways (ba.com) also operates flights to Seoul from London Heathrow every day.

Resources

Visit Korea (visitkorea.or.kr) offers helpful information on planning your trip to Seoul, including events listings.