Shang1

Shanghai - China

Judy Bastyra sinks her teeth into xiaolongbao in China’s second-largest city, and discovers the vibrant Pudong and charming old-world French Concession.

Travel Time 12hrs 10min

Why go?

Hot on the heels of Hong Kong, Shanghai is emerging as one of the most exciting cities in the world. Utterly given over to the possibilities of capitalism, the city boasts a burgeoning horizon of fantastic skyscrapers, big-name designer shops and countless upmarket, hip restaurants. A paradise for urban junkies, it has the pace of New York – and then some. But alongside fast living and modern pleasures, Shanghai is also a beacon of historic charm; you only need visit the old French Concession, with its recently renovated and rebuilt shikumen (traditional houses), to catch a glimmer of the once more subdued colonial city.

What to do

Start your day at the Bund, on the west bank of the Huangpu River, where locals practise tai chi or ballroom dancing each morning against the iconic backdrop of Pudong, the pulsating, neon-clad contemporary quarter. As well as the modern mammoth buildings, take in the area’s majestic colonial structures along Zhongshan Dong Yi Lu. Pop into the Rockbund Art Museum (rockbundartmuseum.org) – its Q Confucius exhibition includes a ‘breathing’ installation of the philosopher – or the Shanghai Art Museum, in the heart of People’s Square, which houses an extensive collection of Chinese artefacts. The leafy, sedate avenues of the French Concession dazzle with designer shops and high-end restaurants. But in the Old Town, the flea market bustles with bargain-hunters seeking unique finds. You can still buy propaganda posters, statues of Mao Zedong and copies of his Little Red Book. Catch a glimpse of an imperial-era Chinese garden, at the 400-year-old Yuyuan Gardens, which brims with attractive pools, walkways, bridges and rockeries. Take tea at Hu Xin Ting, in a pavilion on the lake, after your visit. In the same district, the ornate Jing’an Temple houses a Ming dynasty copper bell and ancient Buddhas. Watch the sun set from The Grand Hyatt’s Cloud 9 bar (00 86 21 5047 1234, shanghai.grand.hyatt.com); on the Jin Mao Tower’s 87th floor, it is one of the highest bars in the world and offers 360-degree-views of the city.

Where to stay

The Fairmont Peace Hotel (00 86 21 6321 6888, http://fairmont.com), right on the Bund, is one of the most famous hotels in the city and has spectacular views over the river. As does the Pudong Shangri-La (00 86 21 6882 8888, shangrila.com), which, somewhat ironically, has a good Japanese restaurant. URBN Hotel is located in the French Concession (00 86 21 5153 4600 urbnhotels.com), and is remarkably sleek and eco-friendly.

Where to eat and drink

Xiaolongbao (dumplings), pillowy parcels of golden liquid, which once savoured, are not readily forgotten, have a cult status in Shanghai. Head to Din Tai Fung (00 86 21 6385 8378), in Xintiandi, for some of the best. Fillings include the likes of pork and black truffle, pork and hairy crabmeat, or goose liver and chicken. The shop also makes delicious sliced cucumber with chilli and garlic, black fungus in vinegar sauce and sesame dumplings in soup with sweet rice wine. For a more refined dining experience, however, head to Lost Heaven in the French Concession or on the Bund (00 86 21 6433 5126). It specialises in Yunnan food: the tea leaf salad, fish in banana leaf, and eggplant in tomato and ginger are all top-notch. Jujube Tree (00 86 21 6384 8000) is the best vegetarian spot in the city, offering a menu including Sichuan fried mushrooms with a vinegary caramel sauce and fried lotus root with chilli powder. At one of the many street markets, you can pick up a Shanghai pancake filled with red bean paste. When it comes to watering holes, Shanghai has endless bars and cafés to choose from, but Glamour Bar (00 86 21 6329 3751), along the Bund, wins points both for its location and mojitos.

Time running out?

Song Fang Maison de Thé (songfangtea.com), in the French Concession, sells Chinese teas to go.

Map

Travel Information

Travel Information

Currency is the yuan (RMB). Shanghai is eight hours ahead of GMT and is a 12-hour flight from London.

Getting There

China Eastern (uk.ceair.com) flies direct to Shanghai from London Heathrow.
Virgin (virginatlantic.com) flies from London Heathrow to Shanghai.

Resources

The China National Tourist Office (cnto.org) provides advice on travelling to China and travel visas.

Average daily temperatures and rainfall

JanFebMarAprMayJunJulAugSepOctNovDec
Min Temp1251116202525201582
Max Temp7811182327313026221610
mm123336544221

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